tackling latkes: sweet potato-scallion & potato, onion and apple

i've never made latkes before,

for the purpose of chanukah.

for my culinary school graduation,

i decided that one of my dishes for the

grand buffet, was going to be beet latkes.

when i was done shredding them,

the table,

my apron,

my hands,

the floor and the counters,

were stained red and i was already

over the project. by then, my chef

had convinced me that they could

be served at room temperature, so

that i did not have to struggle with

a la minute preparations - in retrospect,

that part was probably for the best - and

he had an idea that they should be served

over a bed of sliced, raw golden beets.

my memory of that day is this:

while others had the idea to create appetizers,

like, little savory cheesecake bites, cut into

precious squares, i just had to create not only

one, but three dishes, that involved persnickety,

time consuming steps. after making

teeny tiny chocolate tarts and lobster, corn

and chive shot glasses, i spent all afternoon

frying 150 beet pancakes, only to have the

people who ate them, complain that:

1) their fingers were stained

2) they were kind of cold and

3) they didn't realize the raw beets were for

pretty, not for eating.

i was over latkes.

but, then, this year, for chanukah,

i wanted back in.

i want to start making dishes that have

tradition to them and holiday memories

attached. i want to own a portion of the

jewish meals that my family will serve

year after year. i want to, one day, not

be shocked when i'm responsible for

producing an entire holiday meal

on my own.

my mom was thrilled.

my sisters were happy to still

have latkes.

i was kind of scared.

i was worried that i wouldn't

work quickly enough and that the

potatoes would brown. i was worried

that i wouldn't be a good enough

squeezer and that the latkes wouldn't

turn golden, because they'd be too

waterlogged. i was worried my family,

upon eating their first latke,

would turn to my mother, with pleading

in their eyes, and silently beg her to take

back latke making duties next year.

all of these fears - and the fact that i had to

work the day of our chanukah dinner (held

this past weekend, thanks my work schedule

this week) - convinced me to make the latkes a week

early, and pop them in the freezer, to give me

time to fix any mistakes.

i decided to make two latkes:

sweet potato latkes

from gourmet, that i've

been looking at for years

and

melissa clark's apple potato latkes,

featured one week earlier in

the new york times.

and then,

this happened:

(except for the facts that

-i confirmed that i have

a hot [and cold spot] on my burner

-i made myself cook in a freezing cold kitchen

with the windows open to eliminate the frying

smell from the start [didn't work]

-i should have followed my instinct and squeezed

the sweet potatoes before frying, even though the

recipe didn't instruct for that to happen

-it took me all afternoon to make the latkes

-i may have [literally] frozen my husband out of the kitchen,

and then demanded that he come back to help me

squeeze the potatoes, apples and onions quickly,

before making him help me find room in our jam-packed

freezer for 60 latkes)

the whole thing actually went ok.

sure, i've learned you can always squeeze a little bit

more, to really make sure all the liquid is out.

and yes, i'm now more willing to accept that

the first batch of latkes are kind of like the first pancake,

and will never go that well.

but, the latkes tasted like latkes.

in spite of my best efforts, the house smelled

like chanukah.

and this past saturday,

we reheated the latkes

at my mom's, until they were

crisp-on-the-outside,

creamy-on-the-inside.

i watched my family carefully -

no one seemed to be sending

out smoke signals for help.

they ate every single one,

erasing my

beet latke nightmare memories,

in the process.

sweet potato-scallion latkes

adapted from gourmet magazine

this recipe was very basic, and a couple reviewers had complained that they were bland. so, after grating the sweet potatoes, i stirred in a few healthy dashes of cayenne, cumin and coriander, which i think i actually was able to taste, subtly, in the finished product. i did not measure - i just shook in spices, until it felt right. as i said above, the recipe did not call for squeezing liquid out of the potatoes, but i think that was a mistake. i spent the whole time i was making these, trying not to notice the liquid pooling at the bottom. and, i doubled the scallions, but i think i could have tripled them (below, i've written as i made them - doubled).

i also made the decision to double this recipe, which was the right decision. the original recipe was supposed to make 28, but doubling it, i got 30. sure, maybe some of mine were big, but i don't think they were that big. below, is the doubled recipe.

4 eggs, lightly beaten

1 bunch scallions, trimmed, cleaned and finely chopped

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled

2/3 cup all-purpose flour

ground cayenne

ground cumin

ground coriander

3/4-1 cup vegetable oil

in large bowl, stir together eggs, scallions, salt and pepper; set aside.

using box grater or grating attachment on the food processor, grate sweet potatoes; transfer to a dish towel and squeeze out as much liquid as possible. add grated sweet potatoes; sprinkle with flour and a couple healthy shakes each cayenne, cumin and coriander. stir to combine.

in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat, heat 3/4 cup oil until hot, but not smoking. Working in batches of 4, spoon 2-3 tablespoons sweet potato mixture into skillet. flatten using back of a slotted spoon (i actually used the 1/4 cup metal measuring cup i was using). reduce heat to medium and cook 3-4 minutes, or until golden brown on each side, turning once. transfer to paper towel-lined plate or sheet pan. add remaining oil to skillet, if necessary.

to freeze: let cool completely. freeze in single layer 2-4 hours. transfer frozen latkes to a freezer safe resealable bag or container. to reheat: heat oven to 400˚f. heat latkes 10-15 minutes, or until hot and sizzling, turning once.

potato, onion and apple latkes

adapted from the new york times

for this recipe, i did something that i never do: i just trusted the recipe. i decided to make it the second i saw melissa clark tweet about it, i didn't bother to research if anyone else made it and i just went for it. it was kind of refreshing. i also doubled this recipe and made the latkes, larger than instructed, but somehow, got exactly the right number (36).

i think that my apples were small, and as i result, i didn't really taste that much apple, but i don't mind, and i would still try them again the same way. i used 4 onions, because they were tiny. also: because i was so nervous about making sure that the apples and potatoes, didn't brown, i asked larry to help me and we turned it into a very fast multi-step process. instead of shredding the onions, potatoes and apples at the same time, i shredded the onions first, squeezed them and then added them to the bowl with the eggs. then, i asked larry to shred and squeeze the apples while i peeled, shredded and squeezed the potatoes. we did not have anything brown, and i recommend it, but if you're cooking alone, there's probably no reason for my crazy version of operation shred and squeeze. (i also realize that my method added work, but it relieved stress, so i consider it a wash.)

here's what i didn't do: i didn't make the cinnamon sour cream that went with it (i'm not really sure why), and since i was making this recipe second, i opted to just keep using vegetable oil, instead of the olive oil.

6 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 teaspoons black pepper

2 medium yellow onions, peeled

4 golden delicious apples

2 large russet potatoes

1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour

2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

vegetable or olive oil for frying

in large bowl, stir together eggs, salt and pepper; set aside.

using box grater or grater attachment on the food processor, grate onion. place onion in strainer; press on onion to release liquid. transfer onion to dish towel; squeeze out remaining liquid. transfer to bowl with egg mixture.

peel and core apples; grate apples. repeat straining and squeezing. transfer to bowl with onions; stir to combine. peel potatoes; repeat shredding and squeezing. sprinkle with flour and baking powder; stir to combine.

in large skillet over medium-high heat, heat 1/4-inch oil, until hot, but not smoking. in batches of four or five, drop 3 tablespoons of latke mixture into skillet; press to flatten. cook 5-6 minutes, or until golden brown, turning once. transfer to paper towel-lined sheet pan.

to freeze: let cool completely. freeze in single layer 2-4 hours. transfer frozen latkes to a freezer safe resealable bag or container. to reheat: heat oven to 400˚f. heat latkes 10-15 minutes, or until hot and sizzling, turning once.

salt and vinegar potatoes

sometimes i see a recipe and i'm

instantly angry at myself for not

thinking of it first.

that's how i felt over a year ago

when i saw

grilled salt & vinegar potatoes

on 101 cookbooks, just under

a year ago. it just seemed so

obvious - but really was it?

i'm embarrassed to admit it,

but even though, at the magazine,

we constantly infused potatoes

with everything from garlic and rosemary

to lemon, before mashing,

i never made the leap to slices.

or to liquid infusing.

or to recreating a potato chip.

but, i'm getting ahead of myself.

i like salt and vinegar potato chips.

when it comes to potato chips are

they my absolute? no. but, i enjoy

the occasional puckered torture.

when i saw this recipe, it just seemed

so smart. and, as is my new,

lease on life - pretty easy.

(not to say that i'm always taking

the simple way out. for some reason,

that i cannot explain, i spent most of last

week preparing fish tacos -

just for larry and i - for days.

on sunday, i shopped for the ingredients.

monday, before meeting my family

for dinner, i pickled the red onions.

tuesday, when i got home from work,

i broiled tomatillos, an onion, cloves

of garlic and a jalapeno

before throwing them into the

food processor with lime, cilantro and

scallions for salsa.

the next night (taco night),

i made a lime crema, then

marinated and cooked the fish.

so that's ok, but sometimes chopping an onion

and garlic and opening a can of tomatoes

for a crazy quick marinara

is just too much.

it's ok - i don't always understand me either.)

anyway, the potatoes.

they looked very fast and hard to mess up.

it was a very hot night and

i loved that they could be mostly prepped ahead

of time and then, only cooked for only 10 minutes on the

grill. and, i loved that the recipe

was made from very simple ingredients:

waxy potatoes,

white vinegar,

olive oil,

salt and pepper.

and here's what you have to do.

you slice the potatoes pretty thin,

and place them into a saucepot, already

filled with 2 whopping cups of vinegar.

once that mixture has been brought to

a boil, let them briefly simmer

and then turn off the heat.

after that? you walk away for 30 minutes to

cook something else. or if you're like me,

decide that all this hard work has earned

you the right to watch an episode of gilmore

girls that you've probably seen before.

when the time is up,

you drain the potatoes. again, if you're like me,

this is when you freak out, thinking that it is such

a waste to just throw out all that vinegar. but

then you remember that it's all potato starchy

and that if you're going to use it, this is probably

your only chance. so, you drain the potatoes over

a bowl, pour the vinegar back into the saucepot

and bring the whole thing to a boil. you're not

sure what you're going to do with the reduced

mixture - or with a house that smells of vinegar -

but at least you were not wasteful.

so then, you toss the potatoes with

olive oil, salt and pepper, taking care not to

crush them (and again, if you're like me,

this is the part you will be most afraid of,

but, i promise, you will be ok.)

next you'll throw the slices

(actually, maybe you'd

be better off carefully placing them -

i'm sad to say i lost a couple)

on the grill. cover and cook for

a few minutes before flipping

and repeating. and then,

sprinkle with salt. or if you're like me,

sprinkle them with

the sriracha salt you had to make

(but actually had no plans to actually use).

oh, and i almost forgot.

serve that reduced down vinegar on the side,

for dipping. maybe you'll be the only one

who feels like you need that extra kick.

maybe you'll be the only one who wants

to add a little torture. but, at least you

weren't wasteful.

salt and vinegar potatoes

adapted from 101 cookbooks

i really enjoyed these potatoes - they were a great side dish to a pretty bad main course (we're not talking about that, though) and they were fun. i think i probably could have simmered them for an extra minute or two and maybe grilled them for a minute less. but, nonetheless, they were good. and we enjoyed them.

2 cups white vinegar

1 pound waxy potatoes

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 teaspoon flaky sea salt or kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon cracked black pepper

sriracha salt or additional salt of your choosing

pour vinegar into medium saucepot. using sharp knife, cut potatoes into 1/4" slices, adding them to the vinegar as you cut, to prevent them from browning. make sure that the potatoes are completely submerged in the vinegar.

set saucepot on stove; bring to a boil. reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes, or until they are just fork tender. turn off heat and let potatoes sit 30 minutes. drain potatoes. (as i said above, at this point, i drained about a cup of vinegar into a bowl, returned it to the saucepot and boiled for about 15 minutes, or until reduced and slightly thicker. i used it as a very (obviously) vinegary dipping sauce. not necessary, but i liked the extra tang it gave to the potatoes.)

place potatoes in bowl; add olive oil, salt and pepper. toss to coat.

heat grill to medium-high. grill potatoes covered, 6-10 minutes, turning once, or until golden brown and marked on both sides. remove from grill; sprinkle with salt or sriracha salt.

a new start

memorial day was a new start for me.

so many holidays have happened

since i moved away six years ago.

they all resembled each other.

i, on the brink of frantic, would

cook as much as i possibly could in my

kitchen, before arriving at my mom's,

an hour away

with a couple of half-prepared dishes,

various cooking utensils,

baking vessels and

plastic baggies filled with mise en place:

toasted nuts,

measured baking soda or cinnamon,

chopped onions

and bottles of things.

while my family sat and socialized,

my mom and i would cook.

and i, who usually cooked a lot

before i came, would be tired.

mom, too, i'm sure.

but, this year.

this year, for memorial day,

i found myself in our new house,

just 10 minutes from my mother's.

by myself. larry had left

for a bachelor party two days before.

i had this brand new space to myself

and i did not have to dream up ridiculous

plans to get the food from

point a

to

point b.

i was going to get to know the kitchen.

sure, i had cooked a couple times earlier

that week - reaching into the drawer with

foil when i needed flatware, opening up

the cabinet for olive oil and finding mixing bowls

and trying to figure out how much money we're

willing to set aside for an electrician to install

new lights in our crazy dark kitchen.

but, this time was different.

i was on my own timetable

(not trying to rush to finish before

the sun went down and the room was

rendered too dark) and i had the day to

not be spastic.

and i used it.

i woke up in the morning with

all ingredients for the hamburger buns

and potato salad already in the house -

for me, this is the real secret to organized

success. the second i have to leave, go to the

grocery store, come back and get started

is the second my day somehow always goes

awry. i went downstairs and i cooked.

it went well.

extremely well.

i learned where everything was

and i discovered that the counter to

the right and left of the sink are

pretty good for prep work. i realized

that it is nice to have a modern oven,

with buttons instead of dials,

and that i can appreciate the ugly

ceiling fan that the former owners installed.

but, i didn't, i realized too, late,

take pictures with the intention of blogging.

the dough for the buns had already risen

before i remembered to grab my camera

and even though i started early with potatoes,

i still missed some crucial shots, like um,

maybe a pretty one.

still, i got some good ones to commemorate

my first holiday in my new home, near

my family.

as as i read the recipe for hamburger buns last year in the new york times, i wanted to make them immediately. then, they started showing up in blogs and i just kept waiting for my chance. this memorial day, it happened. my mom made feta and spinach turkey burgers, erin squeezed shredded cucumbers for tzatziki and i finally made some buns - successfully on the first try. i can't believe that three years ago, i was so afraid of yeast that i ignored any recipe that called for a packet.

i made potatoes gribiche a couple months ago after staring at potatoes on my counter for way too long and remembering that that's exactly how luisa, from the wednesday chef, originally came across the recipe - guiltily ignoring potatoes nearing their expiration date in her kitchen. the first time, i made them, adding a bit more mustard and vinegar, and served them soon after, warm, as intended. it was the perfect dish for me, tangy, salty, crunchy and all surrounding crisply roasted potatoes. the next day, even though it was cautioned otherwise, i had the leftovers and didn't mind them one bit. that's why last week, i took a chance and made a double batch of them for the barbecue, not at all worried about the fact that they wouldn't be served for hours. my family loved them and reinforced that this is a great alternative to well, any side dish you might otherwise make.

next up - a real blog post with a real honest to goodness recipe.