Tuesday, June 16, 2009

sometimes, the kitchen isn't my friend

we recently made plans 
for dinner.
as soon as it was decided,
i realized that the preceding
days would be spent at
my mom's and i worried
that i wouldn't have time
to bake together a dessert.

so even though i was using
my saturday night to make
this and this,
i still thought it would be
a good idea to throw one
more dish into the mix.

i decided drop or bar
cookies would be best,
and i had been craving lime.
everywhere i looked, there
seemed to be recipes for 
shortbread with lime,
lime sugar cookies,
lime, lime, lime.
i was in. now i just needed
a recipe.

in my continuing effort
to try to use my cookbooks
more often, i pulled a bunch
out until i found 
the recipe that seemed perfect:
lime bars with white chocolate.
it called for a 9 x 9 pan,
but i opted to increase
the proportions and bake in 
a 9 x 13 instead so that i could
bring half to my mom's 
and half to lauren's.

the grocery store - a new one -
was madness and looking
for an escape,
larry and i ducked into
the one aisle that appeared
empty: stone fruit.
i know it's not yet peach season,
but still surprising.
after the crowds passed,
we turned to leave and i noticed
a bag of key limes.

i looked at the teeny limes and
decided to slightly change course.
oh, it was fate and a very bad idea
all rolled into one.

at home, i thought i could brilliantly
balance baking two things, with
two different baking temperatures,
in an alternating pattern. 
i pressed out the crust
for the raspberry tart,
put it in the oven for pre-baking
and then got to work,
processing graham crackers,
zesting the tiny key limes and 
melting butter. 

the tart crust came out of the oven,
i reduced the temperature of the oven,
and as i waited for the signal,
i reread the next step,
very easy.
just mix together the cream cheese,
lime juice, eggs and sugar.
once the crust comes out, pour
the filling inside and return to the oven.

i set the baking pan on the middle rack
of the oven and suddenly - if this
were a movie, the gentle music 
would have immediately slammed
to a screeching halt - 
looked over and 
realized i hadn't juiced the key limes.
yes, the filling is very fast, if
you've already painstakingly squeezed
the juice out of these miniature globes.
after juicing one by hand, on my own.
i screamed for larry, who was happily
watching baseball, blissfully unaware of his
next 10 minutes.
together, i halved the limes, 
pulled the seeds out 
and handed them to him with the instruction,
no juice left behind. 
unfortunately, 15 seconds
in, larry found a cut 
that he didn't know he had. 
we switched places, but still, 
with every lime,
he screamed, 
and i alternated my time between
watching the timer countdown 
and praying
that this one bag of key limes 
was enough to yield 3/4 cup of juice. 

we just made it - we had exactly what
we needed. the timer went off
and as i begged larry to unwrap 
the cream cheese and measure out 
the sugar, i placed the crust on a cooling
rack and cracked the eggs
into a bowl.
i put everything in the mixer, as larry
walked out of the room, no
doubt shaking his head at the
crazy lady in the kitchen.

lastly, i poured in the juice, 
relieved that everything
was in place. 
i relaxed,
turned the mixer on
and screamed (again,
music stopping at a screeching halt).
i'd like to blame it on the frantic
situation, knowing that i had already
messed up by not having
my juice ready, that i had been
crazy for trying to make two 
desserts at once, rationalizing
that they both needed to be
baked twice, that i was already
ready to be out of the kitchen 
and that
if i was being honest,
i had found a cut on my finger, too.
but, really, it's just that i was having
a moment. 
a dumb moment.
because i know better than to just
pour a bunch of liquid into a mixer
and turn it on. 
i know that you
should take a spatula and fold
the contents together a few times
to moisten and incorporate.
but i didn't. and so, a bunch
(how much, i don't know) of that 
precious juice that we
squeezed and squeezed, 
flew back out
of the bowl and 
landed all over the top
half of my body.
we were out of key limes.
i didn't have any regular limes.
i had no choice but to carry on.
i finished mixing, poured the whole
thing into the crust, laughing
that it looked like a child had
put the parchment paper in the pan
in the first place,
placed it in the oven and walked 
into the living room,
still slightly dripping and now,
sticky, with lime juice.

i was done. but i couldn't
be. i still had to cook the rice,
and fill the raspberry tart.
larry followed me back into the 
kitchen, where thankfully,
he cleaned up the mess as i 
started on the rice. when the
lime bars came out of the oven,
larry left, but not before
giving me a weird look,
saying, you need a drink, 
pouring me a beer
and walking out, again.
hours (yes hours)
later, when the grape leaves
and the tart were both 
cooling, i assembled my
mock double boiler,
melted down a little bit
of white chocolate and drizzled
it all over the bars. 
kind of pretty. but i couldn't 
look at them anymore. instead,
i covered the pan, fridged
the whole thing
and decided to not look
at them again until morning.
considering what those bars
had gone through that day,
i think the decision was mutual.

key lime white chocolate bars
adapted from the greyston bakery cookbook's lime bars
these were really delicious, smooth and sweet, with nice hints of tartness (of course, it could have been more). and let me just say, these should not have been hard. this is a simply recipe that i somehow made impossible - so don't be afaid of it. as i said, i multiplied all ingredients by 1 1/2 to make sure it filled out a 9 x 13 pan, so if you only want to make 9 x 9 worth, only use two-thirds. also, because key limes are much tarter, i increased the sugar to compensate. you'll want to chill them for at least 2 hours to make sure they're firm enough to cut, but if you have the time, i recommend keeping them in the fridge overnight.

18 graham crackers (2 1/2 x 5)
1 1/2 cups, plus 2 tablespoons, granulated sugar, divided
2 tablespoons grated key lime zest, divided
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, melted
3 (8 ounced) packages cream cheese, at room temperature
3 egg yolks
3/4 cup freshly squeezed key lime juice (for me, this took 23 key limes, or one bag)
4 ounces white chocolate, finaly chopped
1/2 tablespoon vegetable or corn oil (optional)

make sure your key limes are juiced.

place rack in center of oven. heat oven to 350˚f. grease 9 x 13 baking pan; line it with large piece of parchment paper that extends over the sides. set aside.

in bowl of food processor, pulse graham crackers until fine crumbs form. transfer to a bowl; add 1/2 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon lime zest and salt. mix to combine. pour melted butter over cookie crumb; press mixture into the bottom of the baking pan. bake 10 to 12 minutes, or until the color deepens and the crust becomes fragrant. remove from the oven and place on cooling rack; let cool slightly.

meanwhile, in bowl of your electric mixer, combine cream cheese and remaining 3/4 cup, plus 2 tablespoons, sugar. add egg yolks one at a time, mixing just until blended. add lime juice and remaining 1 tablespoon zest to bowl, using spatula, fold to combine slightly. start mixer on low, increasing speed to medium, and beat just until mixture is completely blended. 

pour cream cheese mixture over warm crust. bake 30 to 35 minutes or until the filling is set and beginning to just slightly color. place on wire rack and let cool completely.

in bowl set over saucepot of simmering water (but not touching), melt white chocolate. if the chocolate doesn't seem fluid enough, add a small amount of oil to thin it out. using fork, drizzle white chocolate over bars. let sit 10 minutes. cover bars and place in fridge. chill 2 hours, or overnight. using sharp knife, cut off edges of bars. cut into squares. chill until ready to serve.

Thursday, June 11, 2009

we're ok, we're fine

for me, it is very hard
to look at food and to see
it just as food.
i really do associate different
dishes with different parts of
my life or memories.

i never have a bite of 
carrot cake without thinking
of all of our family birthdays
(or the fact that, believe it or not,
back in the day, Friday's,
made the best carrot cake ever
and my mom tried to get their
recipe but they said no. or the fact
that years later, at our monthly
birthday party at the magazine, 
a co-worker's mom
had baked a carrot cake that tasted
just like the one from Friday's and I 
thought, finally. but then, her mother
refused to give up the recipe. and the 
coworker said she didn't blame her.
what's that about?)

or pastina, which i recently made
for larry when he wasn't feeling
well because when i was growing
up, my mom made pastina.
yes, this time around it tasted
a bit like baby food, but,
i think we were both comforted
even now.

or pizza with vinegar,
which is almost always how i eat
pizza, once lauren and i finally
drizzled it on. we had spent years
watching other customers drizzle
red wine vinegar onto 
their ultra thin crust pie at 
a restaurant that gives you 
a T-shirt if you eat an 18"
round on your own.
finally, while sharing a smaller
pie, we cracked and loved it.

and whenever, i make this 
artichoke soup,
i will think about our wedding
and honeymoon, or more
appropriately,
our first day back to work,
following the madness.

we were engaged for 
one year and one month
when i started my new job.
our wedding was 5 months away
and we had yet to fully confirm
our honeymoon. up until this point,
i had been holding tight to my 
croatia fantasy, but hadn't cemented 
the plans.
so, when i gave my new boss the days
that i needed off, i panicked and 
gave a return date much sooner 
than i should have, 
worrying that i would disappoint 
everyone too quickly. 

we were marrying on a sunday,
i imagined leaving for the honeymoon
on tuesday, and i told them, 
sure, no problem, i'll be back 
the following thursday.

the second i said it, i regretted it, 
knowing that not only were we no 
longer going overseas, but also
that there would be little to any
downtime between returning home
and heading back to work.

so, we booked a trip to barbados
(actually to curacao first, but
that didn't work out), for
tuesday to tuesday.
then, about a three and a half months
later, a position -
a promotion - opened up 
and i was encouraged to go for it.
i spent the next few weeks heavily
preparing and about 3 weeks
before the wedding, got the job.
start date? immediately.

while on our honeymoon,
i tried not to, but i worried that
we would rush back and go
to work and that it would feel
like we never went away. 
i sat in our gorgeous private
pool thinking about the fact
that in 5-4-3-2 days we
would be back and at night,
i dreamt about things that
i forgot to take care of before
i left.
we still had a good time
and i worked hard to
get over myself.

i woke up wednesday morning, 
knowing that the 
next day, 
not only would i be at work,
but that it would be the beginning
of a 9 day-straight stretch.
it really, honestly, hurt.

thursday came, 
i went to work
and everyone was lovely, 
welcoming me back, 
acting like they had known
me for longer than 5 months,
asking for wedding pictures,
honeymoon stories, 
to see my wedding band.
but, still i had 400 e-mails,
which meant 
my inbox was full, which meant
that i couldn't reply to any until
i deleted at least half. 
i was now officially into my job
and rightfully expected to jump
back in and take responsibility
for myself as a professional,
not a planning-a-wedding-learning-
a-job quasi employee.

we were back. 
which, to me, meant
back to everything. i searched for 
a recipe to make for dinner that night, 
found this quick soup
shopped for the ingredients and
drove home, teary.
it wasn't that the wedding was over.
it was just that we were back,
from the vacation, the getaway,
the everything we had planned
for so long, but really,
we hadn't planned for this.
i had to work like crazy now,
but plan-wise, i was free for
the foreseeable future.
it felt scary.

when i walked in, larry greeted me,
arms out, asked me how my day was 
and i burst out crying,
saying (and, really i'm not proud
of this): hard, it was hard. 
we're back.
and now we're just married people
who work.
i set to work chopping the onion,
a good excuse to pretend that's why 
i was crying.
then i tossed garlic and 
artichokes into the pan
with broth and simmered them 
together. i did puree it, 
but decided that i was too cranky
to strain the smooth mixture, 
considering that i 
had already cheated terribly
by buying pesto (after growing
up in a pesto-making household),
instead of making it.

a handful of grated romano cheese,
a few big squeezes of lemon
and a splash of milk
turned the creamy soup
from so-so to very good.
the jalapeno-pecan pesto that i had
picked up was fantastic,
and together with cornbread,
they made the night so much
easier to swallow.
we looked at our honeymoon
pictures again, talked to 
friends and family,
spent a crazy amount
of time staring at our rings
(which we had left behind,
lest losing our new pieces
of jewelry at the beach),
and i finally realized it would
be ok. 
married,
working,
non-stop running around.
whatever.

this soup, made from
not so much, kind of snapped
me out of it, made me deal
with life and made me 
grateful for the fact that
we even had a honeymoon,
seven uninterrupted days 
together and
and that my typically pale
arms were actually tan.
when i re-made the soup
last week, it wasn't quite
so magical, but it was still
quick and comforting.
this time, i blended together my own
pesto - trying to recreate
the one that i bought 9
months before. 
i used arugula instead of
parsley and truth be told,
it tasted nothing like
the other, but still, i believe,
it is a pesto that could stand up
against others.
and when i dropped a dollop
in, it kind of made me forget
that on the walk over to the table, 
the soup had sloshed around,
messing up its edges
and was no longer pretty.
so, i took a breath, 
took a picture,
took a spoonful,
remembered the first
taste last september,
and settled down.
lemon artichoke soup
the first time i made this soup, i evened it all out with about 1/4 cup of milk. the second time i didn't - i think the milk mellows the mixture nicely, but it's certainly not necessary. this recipe is pretty different at this point than the original - one major change: i still haven't strained the mixture after pureeing. i'm fine with the texture, but if you want it ultra silky smooth, add the step back in.

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large white onion, peeled and chopped
3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
2 cans (16 ounces each) artichoke hearts, drained and rinsed
3 cups (or more) fat-free, low-sodium chicken broth
1/3 cup grated romano cheese
1 large juicy lemon, juiced

in saucepot over medium heat, warm oil 30 seconds to 1 minute, or until hot. add onion; season with salt and pepper. cook 8 minutes, or until soft and translucent. add garlic and cook 1 minute. add artichoke hearts and chicken broth. bring mixture to a boil; reduce heat and simmer 8-10 minutes, or until artichokes are very soft. using immersion blender, puree mixture. 

(if you do not have an immersion blender, transfer mixture to blender, in batches and very carefully blend, putting a towel over the lid and pressing down tightly. hot mixtures live to blow the tops off of blenders, so again, be careful.)

if necessary, thin mixture out using additional broth or milk. stir in cheese and lemon juice. season with salt and pepper. adjust flavorings adding more salt, pepper, cheese or lemon, if necessary. top with pesto.

arugula, jalapeno and pecan pesto
i wanted a spicy pesto and i was fortunate enough to pick one jalapeno that packed a lot of heat. otherwise, i would have thrown a second one in. use your judgement. and, keep in mind that arugula is a bitter green, so this pesto boasts a bit of bitterness. this pesto is not as loose and oily as they usually are. i stopped drizzling it in once the mixture came together into a smooth cohesive mixture, if you want something less firm, keep drizzling in until it reaches your desired consistency. 

oh, and the leftovers were so good smeared on toast, topped with pickled onions and a sunny side up egg.

3 cups packed arugula
3 cloves garlic, halved
1/3 cup, plus 2 tablespoons, chopped toasted pecans, divided
1/3 cup grated romano cheese
1-2 jalapenos, seeded and quartered
1/2 lemon, juiced
3 tablespoons (or more) olive oil

in bowl of food processor, combine arugula, garlic, 1/3 cup pecans, cheese, jalapenos and lemon juice. pulse 5-8 times, or until chopped and combined. with motor running, very slowly drizzle in olive oil to emulsify mixture. transfer mixture to bowl; stir in remaining pecans. cover; chill in fridge until ready to use.