Sunday, November 8, 2009

finally - spaghetti and turkey meatballs

spaghetti and turkey meatballs
when i say to you
that i have been trying to
write this post for over two weeks,
i mean it. i've started it.
several times. only to be
cut off by small things - like
having to go to work,
go to bed, actually make dinner
for the night ahead, deal with
unexpected work crises and um,
one day, somehow cutting
off our internet connection.
so, i know it's been a while.
so long that i almost scrapped
the whole post
in a sign of moving on,
but, i couldn't do it.
we liked the meatballs too much.

--

usually when larry
goes away for work,
i try to get my act together
in time for his homecoming.
not this time.
he had been away for a
week and he was actually
coming home late on
a thursday evening - not
the middle of the night like
usual. i wanted to top

instead, i found out that he
was coming home earlier
than expected, i had a very, very
long and busy day at work that ended with
10 children, pizza dough, flour, sauce
and eventually, baked pizzas for them
to eat. and, i lost my cell phone.
my only phone - especially if larry
and his cell are not in the house.

i got home from work just after
his plane landed, figured out how
to text him through gchat and
ran out to order and wait for
dinner. life without a phone
is tough. i was back home fast -
but he was already there.
and so, he welcomed me and
a bag of (good, but not homemade)
mexican food at the door.
not exactly the way i pictured it.

the next night,
i wanted to make it up to larry
(although, honestly, i think
his spicy pork tacos were fine
with him. i was the one
with the problem). i gave him
a few choices - he chose
spaghetti and turkey meatballs.
on the way to the store
i asked him to cook with me.
he agreed. he also tried to sneak
ground pork into the basket.
he did not succeed.

that night,
while i set to work
chopping and sauteing
onions and garlic,
larry squished peeled
san marzano tomatoes
from the biggest can
i had ever bought.
biggest can of tomatoes ever
we added the tomatoes
to the aromatics, dropping in
a few bay leaves and while
i spent time regretting that
i didn't add wine to the pot,
the whole thing started
simmering.

i had made this recipe
once before, a few years back.
my memories of the experience
consisted of these four things:
i made them for larry after a very
long spell of all things vegetarian,
i was very hot in the kitchen that day,
it took a very long time
and the end result was worth it.
that's why i had asked for
larry's help.
turkey meatballs
this time around,
even though the company
was nice - very nice - the whole
process was much smoother and
i probably could have handled it
by myself. larry cracked eggs
into a bowl while i mixed together
milk and breadcrumbs. i incorporated them
all together with some grated romano cheese
while he stirred the sauce.
once the ground turkey was added
and the whole thing was rolled
into balls, i looked around the kitchen
and realized that everything was very calm.
plate of turkey meatballs
i brought a pot of water to a boil
and pulled out my best kitchen friend,
the immersion blender. i've never really
smoothed out a sauce like this before -
i usually like them chunky and full,
but it was an experiment. i hadn't
followed the sauce recipe that accompanied
the meatballs, but it did call for pureeing
and i thought, maybe that's one step
i should follow. i blended everything
for a minute. just long enough to
make the mixture thick and cohesive,
but still maintain pieces of tomatoes and onions.
it was a lovely success - something i'm sure
every italian grandmother and grandchild
could have told me years ago.

when it was time to put it all together,
i was glad to have larry there to monitor
the pasta, so that i could tend to the
meatballs, which of course, by the time
i was done with them, looked nothing
like balls, more like unruly pentagons.
turkey meatballs browning
no matter. once they're sauced,
no one cares. or at least, no one
in this house cares.

it was a meal not so shocking,
nothing so groundbreaking
in turkey meatballs and sauce,
but for me,
topped with freshly grated cheese
and big glasses of red wine,
it was the welcome back meal
i was hoping for.
just a day late.
turkey meatballs in sauce
spaghetti and turkey meatballs
adapted from giada de laurentiis
the original recipe calls for dark ground turkey, but i used 93% lean, and was very happy with the results. we also had 1/4 pound more turkey, so i upped everything else, in addition to adding chopped garlic and oregano. these turkey meatballs are a great basic recipe - good to store somewhere in your head and adapt as inspiration strikes. i really wantd to bake them, but this meal was larry's and he offered up objections. next time, i'm trying them in the oven. oh, and if you're making your own sauce (so worth it), start the sauce and while it's cooking, make the meatballs. or, if you're really on top of things, make the sauce the day before.

5 tablespoons dried bread crumbs
2 1/2 tablespoons whole milk (we used 1% - it was fine)
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
3/4 cup, plus 2 tablespoons grated romano cheese
4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
2 teaspoons dried oregano
salt and pepper
1 1/4 pound ground turkey
3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil
5-7 cups marinara sauce
1 pound spaghetti

in bowl, stir together bread crumbs and whole milk. stir in eggs, cheese, garlic and oregano. season mixture with salt and pepper. using your hands, gently mix in turkey, just until combined, being sure not to overmix. shape mixture into golf size balls.

bring large saucepot water to a boil; cook and drain spaghetti according to package directions. (ideally, the pasta will be ready just around when the sauced meatballs are done.)

meanwhile, in large skillet over medium high heat, add oil until shimmering, but not smoking. add meatballs. cook 2 minutes, or until golden brown and easy to lift from the skillet. turn meatballs and cook 2 minutes more. continue turning and browning until meatballs are browned on all sides.

add 5 cups sauce to meatballs; bring to a boil. reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes. using a slotted spoon, transfer meatballs to a bowl; tent to keep warm. over low heat, add cooked spaghetti to skillet and mix with sauce, adding extra sauce if desired. transfer spaghetti to a large serving bowl or individual bowls; top with meatballs and additional sauce, if desired. serve with grated romano cheese.

the marinara sauce
this sauce made a lot - more than needed for the meatballs. i emptied the leftovers into a resealable bag, flattened it out and froze the bag for a future dinner. if the past few weeks are any indication of the weeks ahead, i'm sure i'll be glad to have it stashed. there was not a ton of measuring involved with this, so here's a close approximation of how the sauce came to be:

olive oil
dried oregano
red pepper flakes
2 large white onions, peeled and chopped
5 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
1 can (106 ounces) whole peeled san marzano tomatoes
2 bay leaves
granulated sugar
grated romano cheese

in large saucepot over high heat, heat a small splash of olive oil 30 seconds, or until hot and shimmering. add oregano and dried pepper flakes and stir 30 seconds. add chopped onions and cook 10-15 minutes, or until tender. add garlic. saute 1 minute more, or until tender.

meanwhile, remove tomatoes from can into large mixing bowl, squishing and breaking down as you go. when onions and garlic are ready, add everything from the bowl, plus a decent pour of the tomato puree that the tomatoes came in, to the saucepot. add bay leaves.

bring to a boil over high heat; reduce heat and simmer about 30 minutes, or until slightly thickened. remove and discard bay leaves. using immersion blender (or a regular blender in careful batches), puree sauce just until combined, but chunks still remain.

simmer 15 to 20 minutes more. if too acidic, sprinkle in a couple pinches of sugar. add a small palmful of grated parm; stir to combine.

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

getting up to speed

you know those days that
you get home from work,
pour yourself a glass of wine
and then take your shoes off?

well, that's the kind of two
weeks its been. so, while
i have a working post that has
received two to three lines each night,
i'm not crazy about how long it has
taken me to get something - anything - out.

so, in the interest of, well,
still being here, i'm posting not
a story or recipe,
but pictures of some things i've
cooked that haven't quite
made it to the blog.

oh, and, it took me a while
to admit this, because i wanted
to be sure that i could hack it in
the scary world of social media,
but i think i'm finally getting
the hang of all this stuff.
so, i think now, i can finally say it:
not lazy. rustic.
is now on twitter and facebook.

now...for some pictures. (and while we're on the subject of pictures, i'm on flickr, too: as brooke herman.)
roasted parsnip, onion and apple puree with whisky
roasted parsnip, apple and onion puree with honey and whisky.

spicy chickpeas and cod, baked
cod fillets baked in garlicky and spicy chickpeas.

roasted lemon chicken
lemon and rosemary roast chicken - delicious, even though it was accidentally roasted upside down. what? don't judge.

shaved brussels sprouts with soy, sesame and ginger
thinly sliced wok-cooked brussels sprouts with soy sauce, hoisin sauce, garlic, ginger and sesame.

acorn squash stuffed with corn pudding
from 101 cookbooks - acorn squash baked with corn pudding and topped with broiled cheese and sliced scallions.

applesauce kugel with graham cracker crumbs and cinnamon
my mom's kugel - made with applesauce and egg noodles. topped with graham cracker crumbs - i added ground cinnamon.

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

brown sugar and pecan shortbread

baked shortbread
there are two types of people:
those who went to camp and
those who not only didn't,
but don't understand how the
people who did, can recite
a camp song at a moment's notice.

from the age of 6
until the age of 18
i spent my summers
at camp.

some of those years,
i was working,
first as a waitress
(yes, we had waitresses at camp)
and then as a counselor.
most importantly,
the last 10 years were
spent all at the same camp,
making the collection of summers
a huge chunk of my childhood memories.

it was, thank goodness, a former
sleep-away camp that had been
converted into a day camp.
i don't think i was the kind of
kid who could have handled
eight weeks away from my own house.
but we had tennis teams and ceramics,
jewelry-making and nature,
two swims a day, s'mores,
talent shows, counselor shows,
ultimate frisbee and color war.
on good days we had ice cream sandwiches
or watermelon at snack time.
on bad days? ice pops. usually orange.
when it rained,
we went bowling or roller skating
or stayed in our bunks listening
to a group leader tell us
the same scary story year after year.
and when the last day of camp came,
preciously close to my birthday each year,
we sobbed.

because, above all else,
camp for us was about friends.
friends who lived just far enough
away, that we rarely saw each
other throughout the school year.
who we would send letters to -
when you are young, 20 to 30
minute distances might as
well be the other side of the country -
in efforts to keep in touch during
the winter. friends who somehow
felt like your best friends in
the world, who knew the most
about you, who knew
who kissed who
on the picnic tables
during free swim and knew
who always got the shaft
when the poor waitress
set a tray of nine pizzas down to
a table of 10 girls.

when we were 9, we made lanyards
and crossed our fingers that we would
all get our blue tags so that we
could swim and dive together
in the deepest end of the pool.
by 11, we hosted sleepovers,
trying to stay awake and succeeding,
thanks to the peanut butter cups, twizzlers
and store-bought chocolate chip cookies
we insisted our moms' bought.
at 15 we were waitresses.
we snuck frozen pb&j sandwiches,
from the walk-in every day before we left,
fought over boys
and at the end of the summer,
sang a song about camp
that a couple of girls had written
to the tune of sunshine day from the brady bunch
and hard-knock life from annie
in the counselor show.
and at 16, we planned nights to
have parties at each other's homes,
see tom petty, the cranberries
and once, montel jordan, in concert.
eight weeks at camp is
a year in the real world.

my last day of camp
was a thursday, one day before
the official last day of season.
and one day before i left for college.
non-camp people cannot understand
that. but 12 years later, i still am not ashamed.
pine grove played a big role in my life.
and gave me some of my closest friends.
lauren is from camp - we bonded at 10
after learning that we both had the same
pink towel that boasted ballet slippers
and our names, respectively, in embroidery.
and, my freshmen and sophomore year
college roommate was from camp.

by the end of college,
i had lost touch with almost
everyone, save for lauren.
a few years later, the two of us
got back in touch with one,
another lauren (there were actually
five of them altogether). and a year
after that, we decided to look up
and then find, our friend, alexis.
the first time we went out to dinner -
a group of four 25-year-olds,
not the group of 11-14 teenagers
we once were - i looked around the table
and saw us as 16. sure, now we had
college degrees, jobs, boyfriends (and,
for one, a husband), but it was obvious
that we fell right back into place,
in a way that you can only do with
certain people.

none of us live very close to the others,
but we've stayed in each other's lives
for the past five years: meeting for
dinner, going to each other's weddings
and most recently, alexis' baby shower in june.
alexis' daughter, riley was born in august,
and this past weekend
lauren and i finally met her.
i wanted to bring them something
nice, but let's face it,
i am not crafty.
so, i baked.

(but, um, lauren brought an adorable
onsie - why didn't that cross my mind?)

i turned to one of my favorite books
to rely on: alice medrich's pure dessert
i have many one-day-i-will-make recipes
mentally marked off in that book
and i was glad to finally bake the
brown sugar and pecan shortbread,
made from raw sugars.

even though i love baking,
when it comes to cookies,
i'm a huge fan of the bar variety.
you mix, press, pat and bake -
no dropping spoonfuls of dough
on cookie sheet after cookie sheet,
cooling the pans, rotating and
spending hours at the oven in
11 minute increments.
usually.

these cookies worked out for
me this time, but normally
they might have a step too
many to be considered
a simple bar cookie.
chopped pecans
you make the dough,
which couldn't be simpler:
melted butter
rum
vanilla extract
muscovado sugar
flour
pecans
and
salt,
press it into the foil-lined pan
and then wait several hours.
shortbread dough
i got this far and then realized
something: i had no desire to
be in my apartment any more.
larry had been away for work
for several days already and
suddenly, everything seemed
very quiet. so instead of
sucking it up and staying,
i piled
everything -
the pan filled with dough,
the cookbook,
extra pecans for pressing,
demerara sugar for sprinkling
two large knives for cutting,
and a tin for giving - into
a bag and headed to my mom's,
an hour away.

i was a sight,
showing up with
my large pocketbook,
camera bag,
overnight bag,
cookie bag
and no coat,
all for one evening.
and after a few tries,
i was able to explain
to my mom that yes,
i brought unbaked dough
to her house and yes, it
was going to sit on her
counter for a few hours
longer before i have to
bake them,
cut them into squares,
place them on a baking sheet
and bake again.
shortbread (baked once) with pecans and demera sugar
nothing about this recipe
was hard. at all. i even
cut something resembling
squares without
traumatizing myself.
but, this nutty shortbread
is not especially fast.

it is however bursting
with two types of
raw brown sugar,
toasted pecans,
a rich butteryness
and a slight crunch,
thanks to the second
bake in the oven.
and they're more than
worth it for an old friend.
especially one, that you used to
eat lorna doones with at snacktime,
something i remembered
as i pulled them out of the oven.
shortbread squares, ready for their second baking
i loved these cookies because, yes,
they'll crumble in your mouth,
but they survived a rainy trip to
staten island without breaking.
for me, they were the perfect thing
to bring to alexis and her family.
they ate them, one hand on the cookie,
the other on riley,
just as i hoped it would be.

(oh, and while i was busy baking,
my sister was at a wedding. one of
her camp friends was getting married.)
alexis and riley
brown sugar and pecan shortbread
adapted from alice medrich's pure dessert
the original recipe was to be baked in a 8" pan, but i used a 9" so i multiplied everything by one-quarter. i have no idea if that's the correct conversion, but it worked well for me. the other change i made was that i only had dark muscovado sugar and the store did not have any, so i used something called golden bakers, which when eaten out of hand reminded me a bit of dried pineapples. once baked in, it just tasted like a lovely, rich brown sugar. oh, and one last thing: this dough looked kind of funky and overly buttery when i first pressed it into the pan, but by the time i baked it, it looked much more normal, like a real dough.

15 tablespoons (1 stick, 7 tablespoons), unsalted butter, melted and still warm
1/2 cup, plus 2 1/2 tablespoons firmly packed light muscovado or golden bakers sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons dark rum
1 1/3ish teaspoons vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups, plus 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
heaping 2/3 cup pecans, chopped
demerara, turbinado or granulated sugar for sprinkling (i used demera)

line bottom and sides of 9" baking pan with aluminum foil. in bowl, stir together melted butter, sugar, rum, vanilla extract and salt. add the flour and half the pecans; mix just until combined. transfer to prepared pan. pat in evenly. let stand 2 hours or overnight (no need to refrigerate).

position a rack in the lower third of the oven. heat oven to 300˚f.

sprinkle remaining pecans over the dough; gently press into surface. bake 45 minutes. remove pan from oven (leave the oven on). sprinkle the shortbread with demerara sugar. let cool 10 minutes.

using foil, carefully remove cookies from pan and transfer to cutting board, making sure not to break them. using a sharp, thin, long knife, cut into squares (i made 25). place pieces slightly apart on a parchment or silpat-lined baking sheet. bake 15 minutes; let sit on pan 2 minutes.

using spatula, transfer to cooling rack; let cool completely. transfer to an airtight container.

*i'm not going to lie. in that picture of alexis and riley, she is actually opening lauren's gift. not eating a cookie.