Showing posts with label cookie bars. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cookie bars. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

brown sugar and pecan shortbread

baked shortbread
there are two types of people:
those who went to camp and
those who not only didn't,
but don't understand how the
people who did, can recite
a camp song at a moment's notice.

from the age of 6
until the age of 18
i spent my summers
at camp.

some of those years,
i was working,
first as a waitress
(yes, we had waitresses at camp)
and then as a counselor.
most importantly,
the last 10 years were
spent all at the same camp,
making the collection of summers
a huge chunk of my childhood memories.

it was, thank goodness, a former
sleep-away camp that had been
converted into a day camp.
i don't think i was the kind of
kid who could have handled
eight weeks away from my own house.
but we had tennis teams and ceramics,
jewelry-making and nature,
two swims a day, s'mores,
talent shows, counselor shows,
ultimate frisbee and color war.
on good days we had ice cream sandwiches
or watermelon at snack time.
on bad days? ice pops. usually orange.
when it rained,
we went bowling or roller skating
or stayed in our bunks listening
to a group leader tell us
the same scary story year after year.
and when the last day of camp came,
preciously close to my birthday each year,
we sobbed.

because, above all else,
camp for us was about friends.
friends who lived just far enough
away, that we rarely saw each
other throughout the school year.
who we would send letters to -
when you are young, 20 to 30
minute distances might as
well be the other side of the country -
in efforts to keep in touch during
the winter. friends who somehow
felt like your best friends in
the world, who knew the most
about you, who knew
who kissed who
on the picnic tables
during free swim and knew
who always got the shaft
when the poor waitress
set a tray of nine pizzas down to
a table of 10 girls.

when we were 9, we made lanyards
and crossed our fingers that we would
all get our blue tags so that we
could swim and dive together
in the deepest end of the pool.
by 11, we hosted sleepovers,
trying to stay awake and succeeding,
thanks to the peanut butter cups, twizzlers
and store-bought chocolate chip cookies
we insisted our moms' bought.
at 15 we were waitresses.
we snuck frozen pb&j sandwiches,
from the walk-in every day before we left,
fought over boys
and at the end of the summer,
sang a song about camp
that a couple of girls had written
to the tune of sunshine day from the brady bunch
and hard-knock life from annie
in the counselor show.
and at 16, we planned nights to
have parties at each other's homes,
see tom petty, the cranberries
and once, montel jordan, in concert.
eight weeks at camp is
a year in the real world.

my last day of camp
was a thursday, one day before
the official last day of season.
and one day before i left for college.
non-camp people cannot understand
that. but 12 years later, i still am not ashamed.
pine grove played a big role in my life.
and gave me some of my closest friends.
lauren is from camp - we bonded at 10
after learning that we both had the same
pink towel that boasted ballet slippers
and our names, respectively, in embroidery.
and, my freshmen and sophomore year
college roommate was from camp.

by the end of college,
i had lost touch with almost
everyone, save for lauren.
a few years later, the two of us
got back in touch with one,
another lauren (there were actually
five of them altogether). and a year
after that, we decided to look up
and then find, our friend, alexis.
the first time we went out to dinner -
a group of four 25-year-olds,
not the group of 11-14 teenagers
we once were - i looked around the table
and saw us as 16. sure, now we had
college degrees, jobs, boyfriends (and,
for one, a husband), but it was obvious
that we fell right back into place,
in a way that you can only do with
certain people.

none of us live very close to the others,
but we've stayed in each other's lives
for the past five years: meeting for
dinner, going to each other's weddings
and most recently, alexis' baby shower in june.
alexis' daughter, riley was born in august,
and this past weekend
lauren and i finally met her.
i wanted to bring them something
nice, but let's face it,
i am not crafty.
so, i baked.

(but, um, lauren brought an adorable
onsie - why didn't that cross my mind?)

i turned to one of my favorite books
to rely on: alice medrich's pure dessert
i have many one-day-i-will-make recipes
mentally marked off in that book
and i was glad to finally bake the
brown sugar and pecan shortbread,
made from raw sugars.

even though i love baking,
when it comes to cookies,
i'm a huge fan of the bar variety.
you mix, press, pat and bake -
no dropping spoonfuls of dough
on cookie sheet after cookie sheet,
cooling the pans, rotating and
spending hours at the oven in
11 minute increments.
usually.

these cookies worked out for
me this time, but normally
they might have a step too
many to be considered
a simple bar cookie.
chopped pecans
you make the dough,
which couldn't be simpler:
melted butter
rum
vanilla extract
muscovado sugar
flour
pecans
and
salt,
press it into the foil-lined pan
and then wait several hours.
shortbread dough
i got this far and then realized
something: i had no desire to
be in my apartment any more.
larry had been away for work
for several days already and
suddenly, everything seemed
very quiet. so instead of
sucking it up and staying,
i piled
everything -
the pan filled with dough,
the cookbook,
extra pecans for pressing,
demerara sugar for sprinkling
two large knives for cutting,
and a tin for giving - into
a bag and headed to my mom's,
an hour away.

i was a sight,
showing up with
my large pocketbook,
camera bag,
overnight bag,
cookie bag
and no coat,
all for one evening.
and after a few tries,
i was able to explain
to my mom that yes,
i brought unbaked dough
to her house and yes, it
was going to sit on her
counter for a few hours
longer before i have to
bake them,
cut them into squares,
place them on a baking sheet
and bake again.
shortbread (baked once) with pecans and demera sugar
nothing about this recipe
was hard. at all. i even
cut something resembling
squares without
traumatizing myself.
but, this nutty shortbread
is not especially fast.

it is however bursting
with two types of
raw brown sugar,
toasted pecans,
a rich butteryness
and a slight crunch,
thanks to the second
bake in the oven.
and they're more than
worth it for an old friend.
especially one, that you used to
eat lorna doones with at snacktime,
something i remembered
as i pulled them out of the oven.
shortbread squares, ready for their second baking
i loved these cookies because, yes,
they'll crumble in your mouth,
but they survived a rainy trip to
staten island without breaking.
for me, they were the perfect thing
to bring to alexis and her family.
they ate them, one hand on the cookie,
the other on riley,
just as i hoped it would be.

(oh, and while i was busy baking,
my sister was at a wedding. one of
her camp friends was getting married.)
alexis and riley
brown sugar and pecan shortbread
adapted from alice medrich's pure dessert
the original recipe was to be baked in a 8" pan, but i used a 9" so i multiplied everything by one-quarter. i have no idea if that's the correct conversion, but it worked well for me. the other change i made was that i only had dark muscovado sugar and the store did not have any, so i used something called golden bakers, which when eaten out of hand reminded me a bit of dried pineapples. once baked in, it just tasted like a lovely, rich brown sugar. oh, and one last thing: this dough looked kind of funky and overly buttery when i first pressed it into the pan, but by the time i baked it, it looked much more normal, like a real dough.

15 tablespoons (1 stick, 7 tablespoons), unsalted butter, melted and still warm
1/2 cup, plus 2 1/2 tablespoons firmly packed light muscovado or golden bakers sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons dark rum
1 1/3ish teaspoons vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups, plus 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
heaping 2/3 cup pecans, chopped
demerara, turbinado or granulated sugar for sprinkling (i used demera)

line bottom and sides of 9" baking pan with aluminum foil. in bowl, stir together melted butter, sugar, rum, vanilla extract and salt. add the flour and half the pecans; mix just until combined. transfer to prepared pan. pat in evenly. let stand 2 hours or overnight (no need to refrigerate).

position a rack in the lower third of the oven. heat oven to 300˚f.

sprinkle remaining pecans over the dough; gently press into surface. bake 45 minutes. remove pan from oven (leave the oven on). sprinkle the shortbread with demerara sugar. let cool 10 minutes.

using foil, carefully remove cookies from pan and transfer to cutting board, making sure not to break them. using a sharp, thin, long knife, cut into squares (i made 25). place pieces slightly apart on a parchment or silpat-lined baking sheet. bake 15 minutes; let sit on pan 2 minutes.

using spatula, transfer to cooling rack; let cool completely. transfer to an airtight container.

*i'm not going to lie. in that picture of alexis and riley, she is actually opening lauren's gift. not eating a cookie.

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

sometimes, the kitchen isn't my friend

we recently made plans 
for dinner.
as soon as it was decided,
i realized that the preceding
days would be spent at
my mom's and i worried
that i wouldn't have time
to bake together a dessert.

so even though i was using
my saturday night to make
this and this,
i still thought it would be
a good idea to throw one
more dish into the mix.

i decided drop or bar
cookies would be best,
and i had been craving lime.
everywhere i looked, there
seemed to be recipes for 
shortbread with lime,
lime sugar cookies,
lime, lime, lime.
i was in. now i just needed
a recipe.

in my continuing effort
to try to use my cookbooks
more often, i pulled a bunch
out until i found 
the recipe that seemed perfect:
lime bars with white chocolate.
it called for a 9 x 9 pan,
but i opted to increase
the proportions and bake in 
a 9 x 13 instead so that i could
bring half to my mom's 
and half to lauren's.

the grocery store - a new one -
was madness and looking
for an escape,
larry and i ducked into
the one aisle that appeared
empty: stone fruit.
i know it's not yet peach season,
but still surprising.
after the crowds passed,
we turned to leave and i noticed
a bag of key limes.

i looked at the teeny limes and
decided to slightly change course.
oh, it was fate and a very bad idea
all rolled into one.

at home, i thought i could brilliantly
balance baking two things, with
two different baking temperatures,
in an alternating pattern. 
i pressed out the crust
for the raspberry tart,
put it in the oven for pre-baking
and then got to work,
processing graham crackers,
zesting the tiny key limes and 
melting butter. 

the tart crust came out of the oven,
i reduced the temperature of the oven,
and as i waited for the signal,
i reread the next step,
very easy.
just mix together the cream cheese,
lime juice, eggs and sugar.
once the crust comes out, pour
the filling inside and return to the oven.

i set the baking pan on the middle rack
of the oven and suddenly - if this
were a movie, the gentle music 
would have immediately slammed
to a screeching halt - 
looked over and 
realized i hadn't juiced the key limes.
yes, the filling is very fast, if
you've already painstakingly squeezed
the juice out of these miniature globes.
after juicing one by hand, on my own.
i screamed for larry, who was happily
watching baseball, blissfully unaware of his
next 10 minutes.
together, i halved the limes, 
pulled the seeds out 
and handed them to him with the instruction,
no juice left behind. 
unfortunately, 15 seconds
in, larry found a cut 
that he didn't know he had. 
we switched places, but still, 
with every lime,
he screamed, 
and i alternated my time between
watching the timer countdown 
and praying
that this one bag of key limes 
was enough to yield 3/4 cup of juice. 

we just made it - we had exactly what
we needed. the timer went off
and as i begged larry to unwrap 
the cream cheese and measure out 
the sugar, i placed the crust on a cooling
rack and cracked the eggs
into a bowl.
i put everything in the mixer, as larry
walked out of the room, no
doubt shaking his head at the
crazy lady in the kitchen.

lastly, i poured in the juice, 
relieved that everything
was in place. 
i relaxed,
turned the mixer on
and screamed (again,
music stopping at a screeching halt).
i'd like to blame it on the frantic
situation, knowing that i had already
messed up by not having
my juice ready, that i had been
crazy for trying to make two 
desserts at once, rationalizing
that they both needed to be
baked twice, that i was already
ready to be out of the kitchen 
and that
if i was being honest,
i had found a cut on my finger, too.
but, really, it's just that i was having
a moment. 
a dumb moment.
because i know better than to just
pour a bunch of liquid into a mixer
and turn it on. 
i know that you
should take a spatula and fold
the contents together a few times
to moisten and incorporate.
but i didn't. and so, a bunch
(how much, i don't know) of that 
precious juice that we
squeezed and squeezed, 
flew back out
of the bowl and 
landed all over the top
half of my body.
we were out of key limes.
i didn't have any regular limes.
i had no choice but to carry on.
i finished mixing, poured the whole
thing into the crust, laughing
that it looked like a child had
put the parchment paper in the pan
in the first place,
placed it in the oven and walked 
into the living room,
still slightly dripping and now,
sticky, with lime juice.

i was done. but i couldn't
be. i still had to cook the rice,
and fill the raspberry tart.
larry followed me back into the 
kitchen, where thankfully,
he cleaned up the mess as i 
started on the rice. when the
lime bars came out of the oven,
larry left, but not before
giving me a weird look,
saying, you need a drink, 
pouring me a beer
and walking out, again.
hours (yes hours)
later, when the grape leaves
and the tart were both 
cooling, i assembled my
mock double boiler,
melted down a little bit
of white chocolate and drizzled
it all over the bars. 
kind of pretty. but i couldn't 
look at them anymore. instead,
i covered the pan, fridged
the whole thing
and decided to not look
at them again until morning.
considering what those bars
had gone through that day,
i think the decision was mutual.

key lime white chocolate bars
adapted from the greyston bakery cookbook's lime bars
these were really delicious, smooth and sweet, with nice hints of tartness (of course, it could have been more). and let me just say, these should not have been hard. this is a simply recipe that i somehow made impossible - so don't be afaid of it. as i said, i multiplied all ingredients by 1 1/2 to make sure it filled out a 9 x 13 pan, so if you only want to make 9 x 9 worth, only use two-thirds. also, because key limes are much tarter, i increased the sugar to compensate. you'll want to chill them for at least 2 hours to make sure they're firm enough to cut, but if you have the time, i recommend keeping them in the fridge overnight.

18 graham crackers (2 1/2 x 5)
1 1/2 cups, plus 2 tablespoons, granulated sugar, divided
2 tablespoons grated key lime zest, divided
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, melted
3 (8 ounced) packages cream cheese, at room temperature
3 egg yolks
3/4 cup freshly squeezed key lime juice (for me, this took 23 key limes, or one bag)
4 ounces white chocolate, finaly chopped
1/2 tablespoon vegetable or corn oil (optional)

make sure your key limes are juiced.

place rack in center of oven. heat oven to 350˚f. grease 9 x 13 baking pan; line it with large piece of parchment paper that extends over the sides. set aside.

in bowl of food processor, pulse graham crackers until fine crumbs form. transfer to a bowl; add 1/2 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon lime zest and salt. mix to combine. pour melted butter over cookie crumb; press mixture into the bottom of the baking pan. bake 10 to 12 minutes, or until the color deepens and the crust becomes fragrant. remove from the oven and place on cooling rack; let cool slightly.

meanwhile, in bowl of your electric mixer, combine cream cheese and remaining 3/4 cup, plus 2 tablespoons, sugar. add egg yolks one at a time, mixing just until blended. add lime juice and remaining 1 tablespoon zest to bowl, using spatula, fold to combine slightly. start mixer on low, increasing speed to medium, and beat just until mixture is completely blended. 

pour cream cheese mixture over warm crust. bake 30 to 35 minutes or until the filling is set and beginning to just slightly color. place on wire rack and let cool completely.

in bowl set over saucepot of simmering water (but not touching), melt white chocolate. if the chocolate doesn't seem fluid enough, add a small amount of oil to thin it out. using fork, drizzle white chocolate over bars. let sit 10 minutes. cover bars and place in fridge. chill 2 hours, or overnight. using sharp knife, cut off edges of bars. cut into squares. chill until ready to serve.