Showing posts with label tomatoes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tomatoes. Show all posts

Sunday, July 10, 2011

orecchiette with arugula-caper pesto, roasted tomatoes and pistachio breadcrumbs

little ears
there are times that i
think - even as i'm cooking,
even as i'm taking pictures -
that this is not a recipe worth
sharing with you. it's too
traditional, too thrown together
on a weeknight, too convoluted,
too unphotogenic, too...uninteresting.

but, i continue to cook the ingredients.
i continue to take pictures.
and usually, when it's all over and larry's
doing the dishes, i think yep, that was fine,
but, that was a dinner that was just for us:
no one will ever know about it.

but, other times, i take a bite,
still agreeing with my original
sentiment - that it's boring, simple,
fussy - but, also:
worth sharing.

and still, after all that, i almost
didn't write about this dish.
it's pasta with pesto, after all.
arugula and caper pesto
orecchiette, roasted tomatoes, olives, arugula-caper pesto
but, it was really good.
the arugula pesto, which should
have been bitter, was rounded out
with briny capers and roasted pistachios.
the kalamata olives added pockets of
saltiness and the roasted tomatoes
were bursting with garlicky sweetness.
they all came together thanks to the
toasted panko, pistachio and lemon zest
topping, which was sprinkled on
before serving.

and, i think, as i'm telling you about it,
that this pasta sounds both
expected and complicated.
but it's neither and it came together
quite quickly.
pistachios
pistachio
pistachios, garlic, pecorino romano
capers
here's how:
i tossed some pistachios and panko
into the food processor, whirled them
around for a bit and then set them into
a pan over medium heat.
while one eye watched the
breadcrumbs, i pulsed the rest of the
nuts with garlic and cheese, pulsed in
arugula and capers and smoothed the
whole thing out with droplets of olive oil.

and, if we hadn't had a near oven fire - thanks
to a drippy packet of roasted garlic over the weekend -
here's what i would have done first:
i would have placed grape tomatoes in a dish,
with cloves of skin-on garlic,
olive oil, salt and pepper. i would have given
everything a good shake and then popped
them in the oven for about 4o minutes,
until their skins had burst,
the juice at the bottom was bubbly
and the garlic was tender.
but, we did have an incident that involved
a lot of smoke and so, instead, of starting with
that, i waited until larry came home from work
and very kindly gave the oven floor a scrub.
grape tomatoes, garlic
roasted grape tomatoes and garlic
while they cooked, the breadcrumbs sat,
the flavors of the pesto melded together and
the pasta cooked. once they were out of the oven,
everything came together in less than five minutes.

so that was it.
kind of traditional.
kind of seemingly fussy.
kind of enjoyable.
hope you don't mind me sharing.
pistachio, panko, lemon zest topping
orecchiette with arugula-caper pesto, roasted tomatoes and pistachio breadcrumbs
there are a couple items of note in this recipe. first, the pistachios that i used were already roasted, so i was pretty careful when i toasted them with the breadcrumbs. however, if they had not been, i would have toasted the 1/3 cup i used for the pesto. secondly, i used the saltiness of the capers to mellow the bitterness of arugula (i didn't want a repeat version of this one). but, because i had a lot of arugula, i tossed some leaves into the pasta before mixing. this definitely ups the bitter quotient, so if that's not for you, don't feel that you need to add the extra arugula. and as with all pestos, feel free to mix and match the nuts or hard cheeses that you use.

2 cups grape tomatoes
5 large cloves garlic, (3 cloves unpeeled), divided
1/4 cup, plus 1/3 cup shelled pistachios, divided
1/4 cup panko breadcrumbs
1 lemon
olive oil (1 tablespoon, plus 1 teaspoon, plus about 1/3 cup for pesto)
1/3 cup grated pecorino romano
2 packed cups baby arugula, plus one or two extra handfuls, divided
3 tablespoons caper brine
3 tablespoons capers
1 box (16 ounces) orecchiette
1/2 cup chopped kalamata olives

heat oven to 375˚f. in small dish (i used an 8 x 8 ceramic dish), combine tomatoes, unpeeled garlic, 1 tablespoon of olive oil and salt and pepper, to taste. shake to coat tomatoes and garlic. bake 35-40 minutes, or until tomato skins have split and garlic is soft. when cool enough to handle, peel garlic (the cloves should slip out of their skin) and coarsely chop or mash; set aside.

in bowl of food processor, combine 1/4 cup pistachios and panko; pulse 10 times, or until pistachios are ground into tiny pebbles. in small skillet over medium heat, heat 1 teaspoon olive oil. add breadcrumb mixture and cook 3-4 minutes, or until golden and fragrant, stirring often. transfer mixture to a bowl; season with salt and pepper. using a grater, zest lemon over breadcrumbs; stir to combine and set aside.

wipe out bowl of food processor. in bowl, combine remaining peeled garlic, pecorino romano cheese and remaining pistachios; pulse 5 times or until coarsely combined. add 2 cups arugula arugula and capers; pulse again to combine. with motor running, very slowly drizzle in oil, until the mixture is a lighter shade of green, smooth and fluid (this usually takes about 1/3 cup, but could take up to 1/2 cup). set aside.

before tomatoes are finished roasting, bring a large pot of water to a boil; cook pasta according to the directions on the box, reserving 1 1/2 cups hot pasta water 2 minutes before draining pasta.

place the same pot you cooked the pasta in over medium heat; add about half the water and half the pesto. stir to combine. if the sauce seems overly watery, add a bit more pesto. if using, add the arugula leaves. add the pasta, the kalamata olives, the cooked tomatoes, the roasted garlic and any juices from the baking dish; toss gently to combine, adding additional pesto, if desired, and more of the pasta cooking water if the mixture seems too dry.

divide pasta among plates or bowls; sprinkle with breadcrumb mixture.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

marinara-simmered chickpeas with feta

tomato simmered-chickpeas, sheep & goat feta, couscous
on june 1,
four years ago,
larry and i moved into
our first place together.
we had been a couple
for almost three years and
this move, while a long
time coming, was a huge
decision for me.
i'm someone who takes every
possible outcome very seriously.

it had taken a little soul searching
to settle on this old two bedroom,
two bathroom, two parking spot
space, two blocks from the
george washington bridge,
instead of the brand new
one bedroom
facing the hudson river,
but as soon as we were in, it
felt like the right move.

the movers came on a friday
and it started pouring the second
they left. i quietly thanked someone
for that stroke of good luck, even
though the cable guy was not so lucky
and brought huge puddles onto our
hardwood floors. we grabbed dinner out
that night, and the next night,
my family came and we ordered pizzas.

by sunday, we were unpacked
enough to live. the kitchen, in fact, was
the only thing perfectly
assembled, and i vowed to cook our
first proper meal in our first proper home.

i'm not sure why, but something
made me dip into my someday
stash of recipes. it was a pile i started
making in college, and continued to build
while living with my mom again between
jobs. even though, in college we cooked,
at my mom's house, i cooked, and while
living in my studio, i cooked, it just felt
like the time that i had unknowingly
been saving these recipes for.

i'm not even sure what the big deal was.
none of them were that hard to make.
and, because it was june and hot,
and let's face it,
we were tired from a weekend of work,
i chose a very simple recipe for
feta and chickpeas
simmered in tomato sauce
and served over orzo.

larry sat with me as i cooked.
we both realized, we both live here, now.
no one's going anywhere.

when it was time to serve the pasta,
i was bummed. i wanted our first meal
to be perfect - a hopeful symbol of the time
to come in this apartment that was ours.
but this one wasn't.
the feta kinda, sorta melted,
creating a granular sauce.
the flavor was ok, i guess.

i promised myself that i would
recreate this very fast dish. make it
into something that was secondhand
and delicious. i would make it my own.

but, things happen. and, sometimes
i forget my promises to myself.
we were too busy learning how
to be a couple who lived together,
who shared responsibilities and each
other's lives.

we were busy working,
and when i unexpectedly,
(in life, not in the moment -
i really never make impetuous choices)
decided to go to culinary school,
we were busy getting me through,
emotionally. we stayed together in the kitchen,
night after night of my first couple
weeks as i peeled potatoes and desperately
tried to cut them into perfect little cubes,
crying most of the time.
and on sundays, after a full weekend of
class, when i couldn't even think of
stepping in the kitchen, larry
would make dinner -
usually a marinara sauce,
which he perfected by the time
i graduated.

we were busy,
both quitting our jobs
- mine of six years -
and starting new ones,
in a very scary two week period.
two years later, i can say it was
a good decision.

and we were busy,
getting engaged one friday
on the floor of our dining room,
too excited to do anything,
but stay on the floor, calling
our family and friends.
a year and a half later, we were
busy, leaving our home as
brooke and larry and coming back
two days later as well, still
brooke and larry, because i could
not decide if i wanted to change
my last name. but we were married.
and one day later, we left for
our honeymoon, coming back after
a week of rainy barbados weather,
to our home.

we were busy,
as i started this blog and a normal
night of making dinner, eating dinner
and watching how i met your mother,
turned into a night of taking a million
pictures as i make dinner, downloading
pictures, editing and uploading pictures,
blogging, and now, tweeting.

and most recently,
we've been busy, making another huge
decision that took us a long time to arrive upon:
to move out of what has very
clearly become our home. we're moving
over an hour away to a house that does
not remember us learning how to live
together, my culinary school trials,
our engagement or the first
year and a half of our marriage.

but, it is much, much closer
to my family, it has enough
rooms to make new memories
without suffering overcrowding
from my large pocketbook collection
or williams-sonoma boxes, like some
places i know. it has a kitchen with
a lot of natural light, which the camera
will love if i actually get home before
sundown to use it.

because, yes, i'm keeping
my job up here. my job,
that sometimes keeps me way later
than i think i'll be staying when i start
my day. and my job, that last week,
on one of these crazy days, for some
reason reminded me of that
pasta dish with chickpeas and feta.

it had come back to me a few months
ago, when a coworker talked about and
ultimately made, one of her favorite dishes,
chickpeas simmered in marinara sauce.
a little bell went off in the back of my head.
but then, last week, when i was running late
and my plan for a potato and eggplant curry
flew out the door two hours before, i remembered
the dish, my promise to make it right,
and knew i could make it fast.
onions, garlic, tomatoes, wine, red pepper flakes
tomato sauce, chickpea
first attempt
and it was fast.
i got home after 8pm and by 9pm,
dinner was ready. i had made a very
quick sauce, simmered with canned chickpeas,
stirred in beautifully-melting
goat cheese, and tossed the whole thing
with pasta. it was not so pretty. it tasted kind
of gummy. it didn't work.
four years of keeping
a dish lodged firmly in the back of my mind,
for this?
dried chickpeas
plum tomatoes, red pepper flakes, chopped garlic
i was going to make it right.
and soon. we're on borrowed time in
fort lee and i am not letting another couple of years
go by. so, i started with dried chickpeas,
which i soaked and cooked with a few cloves
of garlic on sunday.
monday night, i remade the white wine-laced
tomato sauce, stirring in the chickpeas to
simmer for about 25 minutes, while
i made a pot of israeli couscous, halved
a lemon, plucked basil leaves and crumbled feta.

yes, i went back to feta.
because, yes, i loved the idea of the cheese
making the whole sauce a little luxuriously creamy,
but there's something pretty amazing
about crumbles of feta
occasionally finding their way onto your
fork, too. the only difference, was that i splurged
and bought my favorite, very creamy,
sheep and goat feta, which when warmed,
is lovely.

when the sauce was ready,
i squeezed in lemon for brightness
and dropped in torn basil leaves for freshness
and much needed color.
two very worthwhile additions.
after spooning the whole thing
atop couscous - seemingly
much more appropriate than pasta -
i sprinkled on some of that crumbled feta.
and, i felt very good about that decision.
second attempt
marinara-simmered chickpeas with feta
i've added red pepper flakes in with the onions before sauteing to give the entire dish a little heat and the lemon and basil really add another dimension to this otherwise potentially predictable sauce. all three could be increased or decreased according to your taste. i wish i could tell you how i cooked the couscous, which i ultimately tossed with a bit of lemon juice and grated parm, but something was absolutely lost in translation between my memory of making israeli couscous and the execution. if anyone has a foolproof method for the toasting-absorption method, please let me know.

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large sweet onion, peeled and diced
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
5 large cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1/3 cup white wine
1 can (32 ounces) plum tomatoes
1 1/2 cups dried chickpeas, soaked and cooked* or 2 cans (14 ounces each) chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1 large juicy lemon, halved and seeded
25-30 large basil leaves
cooked couscous or orzo for serving
4 ounces sheep and goat feta, crumbled
grated parm

in large skillet, heat olive oil over medium-high heat; when hot, add onions and red pepper flakes. season with salt and black pepper. cook 2 minutes. reduce heat to medium-low and cook 10 minutes, or until softened. increase heat to medium and cook 5 minutes more, or until just starting to turn golden. add garlic. cook 1 minute more, or until tender, stirring constantly.

add wine; increase heat to high and boil 2 minutes, or until mostly reduced, stirring occasionally. add plum tomatoes, breaking them up with your hands as you add them to the skillet; add juice from can. season with salt and pepper. bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer 15 minutes. add chickpeas; simmer 25-30 minutes, or until the chickpeas are tender and the mixture has thickened. adjust seasoning.

squeeze lemon juice into sauce; stir to combine. working quickly, tear basil leaves into small pieces and add to sauce. cook 30 seconds more, or until basil is wilted. serve over cooked couscous or orzo. sprinkle with feta. serve with plenty of grated parm for sprinkling at the table.

*to cook dried beans: rinse chickpeas. place in large bowl and cover with several inches of cold water. let sit at least 8 hours. drain beans and rinse. place chickpeas in a large saucepot. add three cloves smashed garlic. cover with 8 cups water; bring to a boil. reduce heat; cook at a bare simmer 1 to 1 1/2 hours, or until tender. if not using chickpeas right away, let cool completely in their cooking liquid; store in the liquid, in the fridge, until ready to use.

Monday, June 22, 2009

it's tempting to resent the rain. i'm trying to embrace it. sort of.

as much as we should cook
for the seasons -
buy tomatoes in august,
oranges in january,
asparagus in april -
it's often so much more
tempting to cook for
the weather.

because you can toss
peas with favas and artichokes
as much as you want -
and you may even
like it -
but it won't help anyone
forget that it's been
raining in new jersey
for three weeks, easy.
it won't make you pass over
the details, like
everyday, you come home with
your shoes looking a little
worse for the wear and
the hem of your pants,
wet again.
it will be hard to recognize
that even though it seems
like salad season,
you really just want
a bowl of soup.

or this polenta,
which i was recently reminded of.
the first time i made this,
years ago, it was hot outside
(august, hot) and by the time
i had finished stirring the pot
over a high flame and a
piping hot oven, the last
thing i wanted to do was
actually eat a slice.
so since, i have saved it for
fall
winter
and, now, apparently,
gloomy junes.

vegetarian, very fast and easy,
the only thing required is a little
forethought,
or more appropriately,
proper mise en place -
very important because
almost all of your time will
be spent, stirring the polenta
nonstop, waiting for it to come to
a boil, and after,
making sure it doesn't scorch on
the bottom.

then once this quick cooking
polenta is thick, creamy and smooth,
you quickly stir in
garlic
basil
blue cheese
salt and pepper,
before spreading it evenly into
a skillet or deep pan.

once everything is level,
take the opportunity
to slow down, because the polenta
isn't going anywhere.
this is when you can add toppings,
in an orderly fashion,
or haphazardly, depending on
which style suits you best.
tomatoes,
garlic,
mozzarella
and
more blue.
slide the skillet into
the oven and then you have
18 minutes
to make a salad.
polenta as a meal, is
a wonderful, delicious
idea, but i always feel
like we need some greens
to balance out the wedge
on the plate.

when the table's set,
the salads are out
and everything smells
so good, you can
just picture the cheese
browning and bubbling
around the edges,
pull it from the oven,
and then - and i'll warn
you, this is the hardest part -
wait.
this waiting step,
in addition to upping the original
cooking time by two minutes,
took me sadly too long
to figure out, but thank goodness
i finally did. now, i can pass
this recipe onto you without
an asterick, that would let
you know that this dish
tastes amazing, but will not
cut into a proper wedge
warm and will look
an absolute mess on
the plate.

the polenta comes out
very hot and the last thing
it wants to do is conform
into whatever cut shape
you desire. no, it is very
content to be scooped
out, looking more like
mush, or maybe to be polite
and fair to our main meal,
soft polenta.

but...like all things great,
this polenta shouldn't be rushed.
give the skillet a few extra
minutes in the oven.
once on the table,
let it hang out, get used to
its surroundings while
you enjoy your salad.
then.
and only then.
you can slice past the
(semi-seasonal!)
juicy tomatoes and
fragrant basil,
though the two cheeses -
one for melting and one
for flavor -
into the creamy, but firm,
cornmeal,
and it will be ready to
comply and come much
closer to resembling
the triangular wedge
you intended.

once on the plate,
cozy up to it. settle
in. pretend it's winter
and not a march day in
june. remember that yes,
it's raining, yes it's gross outside
and yes, it's unbelievably
annoying. but if it wasn't,
you'd probably be eating
something else.
baked blue cheese polenta with tomatoes and basil
adapted from bon appetit magazine
a big plus for this recipe is that once you've stirred the cornmeal into a creamy base and added the ingredients, you can taste the mixture (swiftly) and decide what else it needs. it was this grace period that made me decide to up the basil and add both garlic and blue cheese to the polenta - not just sprinkle it on top. i also use grape tomatoes instead of cherry, toss in more garlic and extra grated mozzarella. i use whatever blue i happen to have, but if you're in the store shopping, look for one that melts well, like buttermilk, point reyes or danish. feel free to increase or decrease the amounts, depending on what you love.

also, i usually prepare everything - halve the tomatoes, chop the garlic, grate and crumble the cheeses - ahead of time. except for the basil, because i don't want it to brown. so instead, i pluck 20 to 30 leaves, lay them into two piles and once the polenta is done, very quickly, roll them into a cigar and slice thinly.

4 cups water
1 1/3 cups cornmeal
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 cloves garlic, peeled, chopped and divided
30 large basil leaves, or more
6 ounces blue cheese, crumbled and divided
1 pint grape tomatoes, halved
1 1/4 cups grated part-skim mozzarella cheese

heat oven to 450˚f. coat 12" skillet with a heatproof handle with cooking spray; set aside. (if your skillet's handle is not heatproof, or you're not sure, just wrap it twice with aluminum foil - like i do - to ensure that nothing but the cheese melts in the oven. warning: regardless of if it's wrapped or not, you'll still need an oven mitt to remove the pan from the oven.)

in large saucepot, combine water, cornmeal and salt. bring to a boil over medium-high heat, whisking constantly. reduce heat to medium-low and cook 3 minutes more, or until polenta becomes very thick and pulls away from the pan, whisking constantly. remove from heat; whisk in olive oil and half chopped garlic. quickly roll basil into cigar shape and thinly slice; sprinkle half on top of polenta. add 2 ounces blue cheese; whisk to combine. season with kosher salt and black pepper, to taste.

transfer polenta to prepared skillet, patting evenly. sprinkle with remaining garlic and grape tomatoes; press tomatoes slightly into polenta. sprinkle with mozzarella cheese, remaining blue cheese and remaining basil, slicing more basil, if necessary.

bake 18 minutes, or until cheese is browned around the edges and bubbling. remove from oven and let sit 10 to 15 minutes. cut into wedges to serve.