Showing posts with label white bread. Show all posts
Showing posts with label white bread. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

berry summer pudding

slice of summer pudding
there have been several times
since starting the blog
that i've been more than
grateful for the name
i assigned this space over
two years ago - originally wanting
to title my journal whatever it
would become: something
that was appropriate,
meaningful,
true and with a back story.

and, not lazy. rustic.
has been good to me on
many occasions - but never,
i think so much as right now,
thanks to this funky looking
summer pudding.
it looks bad. i know.
did you consider not even
reading the recipe when you
saw the picture?
wait until you see the one
below - it was almost enough
to make me not write about it.
but then something happened
that changed my mind:
i had a bite.
and it was too good not to
talk about.

--
i feel like over the course of my
writing here, i have not
necessarily been fair to the
magazine that i used to work for.
it's true - i had a hard time there
in many ways for many years.

but, that job gave me a lot
of things that i would be a fool
to not recognize:

it gave me amazing friends
who are an important part of
my life in many ways.

it made me realize that i wanted
to always work in a field that
involved food in some way.

my experiences were a major impetus in my
decision to go to culinary school.

it taught me to be tough and
believe in myself just a little bit.

it - i think - made me a better boss,
in my current position
than i would have been without
those tough experiences.

and, most relevant today, working
at the magazine taught me about
summer pudding.

i had never heard of summer pudding
before the day that i walked up to the
text kitchen for our daily tasting, at least
seven years ago. my mom made a lot of
bread pudding while i was growing up, but i had never
had this cold version, made without
vanilla or milk or even eggs, and instead
several pints of berries.

in fact, when i first took i bite,
i had no idea that bread was even part of
the dessert. it was purple - fresh and sweet -
and somehow - it all clung together.
i thought there must be gelatin.
but, no, our test kitchen director, said.
no gelatin, just natural pectin from the
blueberries that are released when
simmered together.

i was in love.
and the best part was this - magazines work
months ahead of time. for a recipe to get on
the page, it has to be conceptualized, tested several
times until it's perfect, recreated for the camera,
written about, edited and sent to press. so it
is quite normal to start working on halloween in
april or may. i often made promises to myself that
when the recipe was in season, i would make it
at home. i think that maybe happened three times.
in six years.

instead, almost every summer we published
a variation - sometimes using
only raspberries or a combination of
every berry you could think of, sometimes
the bread was layered between the fruit
and other times the puddings were formed
as minis in little ramekins instead of one
large souffle dish.

every year i promised myself i would make
one at home. but, you already know that i
never did. then this year, i was talking to
my friend and he mentioned that his wife
was going to make a berry trifle - i'm not
sure why, but that triggered my memory.
summer pudding was on.
--

i knew that although the flavors meld
together creating one super berry,
i wanted to only use
strawberries and blueberries,
my favorite of the berries. unfortunately,
all of my copies of the magazine
are packed away, so i needed to find
a recipe calling for just those two
from somewhere else. as often happens,
epicurious is my best friend,
and it featured a recipe from
bon appetit for
so, i picked out gorgeous ruby red
strawberries and huge, plump
blueberries.
hearty white bread
larry and i scoured the bread aisle
in search of a "hearty white bread,"
wanting to make sure that the dessert
was not gummy, but also, that
the juice would seep through to the
bottom as it sat overnight.

the recipe specifically said
pepperidge farm and i decided
this was not the time to be
creative, so i picked up the firmest
loaf the brand provided.
larry mashing strawberries
blueberries and sugar
simmered blueberries
the evening i was making this,
we had dinner plans and i had
to move fast. while i sliced
the strawberries, larry
measured out blueberries.
after larry took a fork away from
me and started breaking down the strawberries
with a masher (um, hello, brooke), i
simmered and stirred the blueberries.
while i lined the bowl with bread slices,
larry played odb and jay-z on itunes.
ok, maybe something went a little wrong
there, but at least he was still in
the kitchen with me.
bread-lined bowl
the bread lining. i knew it wouldn't be
beautiful. it involved straight lines,
perfect fits. in some ways, i was very proud
of the job i did. in other ways, i knew
i should have done better. i looked at it this
way: there was a bowl, it was lined with bread.
victory.
simmered blueberries and strawberry puree
bread topped
i poured in the blueberry and strawberry
mixture and covered with the top layer of bread.
i covered it with plastic wrap, grabbed a plate
that was slightly smaller than the bowl and tried
to top it with four pounds of canned goods,
which was the hardest part of this whole thing.

then, i spent the next 24 hours
watching it, adjusting the placement of
the cans, switching out the tiny plate for
a large plate and sometimes, just pushing
on it myself. i could see that only select
spots were turning purple, instead of the
entire thing. it wasn't looking good.
trying to weigh down the pudding
but, it was what i made and i refused
to turn my back. just before dessert,
i tossed heavy cream in a bowl
with sour cream and beat them together,
adding a few shakes of confectioners' sugar.
mmm, delicious. if nothing else,
everyone could eat this tangy whipped cream
by the spoonful.

next, i unmolded the pudding.
the good news was that it worked:
the dessert held its shape, instead
of collapsing into a heap, spilling
everywhere, as could have happened.
the bad news was that it looked like this:
summer pudding (yikes)
i stared at it.
my mom walked over and told me,
as moms do, that she was sure it would
still taste great. oh well.
to my surprise, it actually cut into wedges.
and even more to my surprise,
everyone really seemed to enjoy this
ugly, ugly dessert:
bursting with berries,
sweet and fresh.
just like i remembered.
stems
berry summer pudding
adapted from bon appetit magazine
next time i try this, i'm considering three things: the first would be to strain the berry mixture slightly, reserving the juices to pour over the top in case berries don't seep through, again. my other two thoughts would be to either, gently dip the bread into the simmered berries to get a jumpstart or to just mix the bread in with the berries, instead of layering it on the bottom (but, i'm not so sure that one would work). or, if i decide to just embrace the tie-dyed look, i could make it the same way all over again.

the original recipe called for buttering the bread before adding the fruit, but i've never seen a summer pudding recipe call for butter and it seemed unnecessary, so i left it out.

2 pounds strawberries, hulled and sliced
6 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided
pinch of salt
1 pound of blueberries (about 3 heaping cups)
12 slices firm white bread, crusts removed

in large bowl using potato masher, mash strawberries, 2 tablespoons sugar and salt into a puree.

in medium saucepot over medium heat, stir together blueberries and remaining sugar 7 minutes, or until sugar dissolves and the blueberries start to release their juices. increase heat to high and bring to a boil; boil 5 minutes, or until mixture thickens slightly, stirring often. remove from heat. stir in strawberry mixture. set aside.

line 6-cup bowl with three sheets of plastic wrap, leaving at least a six-inch overhang. line bowl with bread, cutting slices to cover bowl completely. pour in berry mixture. top with remaining bread slices. fold plastic wrap over bread. place plate over bowl. (just a note: the recipe instructed to use a slightly smaller plate than the open bowl, but after a few hours, it just didn't make much sense to me, so i switched to a larger plate. that still didn't work, but at least i felt better about my chances.) weigh down with 4 pounds of canned goods or dried beans. chill at least 12 hours.

to serve, i blended together heavy cream, two spoonfuls of sour cream and a couple shakes of confectioners' sugar until peaks formed. i didn't measure - sometimes there just isn't a reason to. once the cream was whipped, i unwrapped the plastic wrap and unmolded onto a plate. the pudding cut into wedges, but i was prepared to scoop, if necessary.

note: my sisters, who ate the leftovers a couple days later said it was even better after a few days of sitting. they also mentioned that the bread did turn purple. small victories, i guess.

Sunday, May 17, 2009

kick back and indulge - shoes optional

we've done mother's day
every which way in the past:
we've spent many a celebration at
at a nice restaurant,
enjoying dinner with both my
mom and grandmother.
we've toasted to all moms
at an italian restaurant
in boston,
on the evening before
blair's graduation
from grad school
and we've gone
to hotels for their
buffets, filled with large
chilled shrimp,
crab legs
and omelets to order.

but, as most often is the case,
the best celebrations have
been at home,
with our shoes kicked off,
wearing whatever,
eating food that we've prepared
and having the luxury
of talking and laughing
as loudly as we wish.

that's how we spent sunday:
waking up early and tossing
on jeans,
drinking coffee on the way
down and then perching ourselves
at the island in my mom's
kitchen, telling stories,
talking and discussing
the dishes we were about to
eat in a way that would make
one think we were feeding 20,
not six.
as my mom and i debated the benefits
of baking both her dishes
at the same time,
i made a salad,
feeding erin a nibble of each
item - a square of beet,
a crumble of feta, a broken
toasted walnut, watching her
face for reaction - and my mom
fielded two calls from
blair regarding the bagels.

my grandmother came -
she exchanged large hanging
potted plants with my mom
and before we ate,
both sisters tried on dresses
belonging to the other one,
for rehearsal dinners and
college formals that they
had coming up this week,
sampling different shoes
and different pieces
of jewelry from my mom, me
and each other, turning yet another
get together into a fashion show.

and in the background,
the house began to smell
warm, like bubbling cheese
and sweet caramelizing cinnamon,
until the timer went off,
everyone changed back into
the clothing they came in
and we sat around my mom's
large square table, somehow
just the right size for us and
all of the food.
the savory:
a recipe that my mom makes
about once a year - because really
there are few ways to rationalize
baking the casserole more often
that that. her best friend,
judy, gave us the recipe,
originally obtained from judy's
husband, alan's side of the family.
my mom has made it for
new year's day mornings
and
special occasion breakfasts,
and last year, i made it for
a monster brunch that we hosted.
white bread (the only time we ever
actually have white bread),
butter,
eggs,
milk,
sharp cheddar cheese
and spices
sit together overnight and then
puff until golden and bubbling
in the oven.
it is rich, eggy,
gorgeously cheesy
and with a crowd,
there will be none leftover.
while i'm sometimes hesitant
to endorse a dish,
thinking, i know i love
it, but that doesn't mean
you will,
i think with this one i have
to say, you won't regret it.

the sweet:
a new dish this year,
that i must say, my mom was
very excited about.

it was a recipe from paula deen -
who hysterically,
my mother, who is probably
the healthiest cook i know,
is in love with (so much
so that i have very seriously
been tasked with getting paula
to attend an important upcoming
birthday of my mom's. i was given a four
year head start for this mission
and about
8 months in, i started to panic
that my mom was very serious
and paula, not so much up
for coming. when i mercifully
ended up at a press
event with paula, promoting
her sons' cookbook,
i accosted the poor woman -
along with her husband, michael
and sons, jamie and bobby, to boot -
with a birthday card
and begged for signatures,
birthday messages
and good wishes.
they really are as nice
as they seem and paula,
who had kicked off her uncomfortable
high heels in the middle
of what was formerly
david burke and donatella,
grabbed my pen,
told me i was a good daughter,
asked me to hold her glass
and obliged.
i held onto the card for four
months and then realized that
if i waited three years until
the aforementioned important birthday -
still, in present day, over one year away -
i would lose the card.
so i presented it 36 months early
and it is now framed in her kitchen.).

wow. did you get all that?
anyway, i believe that it is
her adoration for paula
that makes her try recipes
that by any other food network
celeb (yes, sandra lee, i'm looking
at you), would probably
be ignored.
the mother's day experiment
was the ultimate coffee cake,
frozen, thawed ready-to-rise rolls
are layered in a bundt pan
with cinnamon, pecans and a
whole mess of other ingredients.
once covered with a tea towel,
it's left to rise overnight - my mom
confessed
to rushing to look at it
in the morning and feeling
extreme excitement when she saw
that it had risen high. see,
this is where i get it from.

once baked, it is like the most
wonderful cinnamon bun
you have ever had,
minus all of the work.
even better, no fussy cutting
or slicing, you can just pull
apart the rounds with your
hands or a fork.
because my mom followed the recipe
pretty closely, except
for adding raisins and sprinkling
some pecans on the bottom of the
pan before adding the rolls,
i'm just going to give you
the link
here.
if you have any questions,
just ask.
she's on standby.

judy's cheddar egg bake
because i'm a big fan of make-aheads, i strongly advise preparing this the night before and storing the dish in the fridge. take the casserole out about an hour before you plan to bake and then let it come up to room temperature.

10 slices white bread, crusts removed
unsalted butter
2 cups milk
8 large eggs, beaten
16 ounces sharp cheddar cheese
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon hot sauce

butter bread. cube bread slices. in mixing bowl, combine bread cubes, milk, beaten eggs, cheddar cheese, dry mustard and hot sauce.

transfer mixture to a 9 x 13 buttered casserole dish. cover and place in the fridge. let sit at least 2 hours or preferably overnight.

heat oven to 350˚f. bake 45 minutes or until casserole is puffed, the top is golden brown and the mixture is baked through. it's great with a few drops of hot sauce on top.