Showing posts with label buttermilk. Show all posts
Showing posts with label buttermilk. Show all posts

Friday, June 18, 2010

buttermilk lime ice pops

buttermilk lime ice pop
i had one of those moments recently.
you know what i'm talking about -
you go into home goods,
crossing your fingers that the perfect rug
or lamp or outdoor furniture has arrived,
only to leave $7 poorer and the
proud new owner of ice pop molds.

it was kind of inevitable that they -
or something similar -
would one day find their way into our house.
larry likes cold desserts. a lot.
i'm not sure, but i think he would pass up
cake or a slice of pie or maybe cookies,
for a bowl of ice cream. a few months ago,
he was looking through the latest
williams-sonoma catalog and he pointed out
a mold machine that was very tempting,
but was absolutely overpriced. and last month,
when visiting my sister, she pulled
mickey mouse molds - procured earlier in the
year in disney - out of the freezer.
it was only a matter of time.

we are in major money watching mode,
thanks to the whole house buying/moving thing.
we cannot make frivolous purchases.
but, when i saw these molds, i knew that it
was a decision that meant more than spending
out of turn. it meant taking a stab at being
a good wife. if the tables were turned and i held
a deep love for anything icy,
larry would have bought them without pause.

he was away and i instantly envisioned filling
and freezing them, greeting him with a pop
upon his arrival. but then, it was three days later,
he was due home in about 4 hours and i hadn't
done anything. i started looking at recipes
and saw a lot more work than i was expecting:
simmering, blending straining, partial freezing.
i was not up for this.
but, then, i had one of those fortuitous moments
that i always think only happens to other people.
i saw a recipe for buttermilk and lemon ice pops.
two days before, still unsure which hamburger buns
i was going to make (these or these),
i picked up a carton of buttermilk. afterward,
i was lingering somewhere at annoyance at myself
for the unnecessary purchase and the desire to make
a chess pie, but it was still sitting in the fridge,
destonationless.
buttermilk
but now, ice pops.
it seemed too good to be true.
there was only one thing: lemon.
i spent a long time anti-lemon.
as you can see here, here and here,
i've grown out of that. but, i still got annoyed
this year when the irish soda bread that i picked
up was lemon-scented and i wasn't so
sure that i was up for lemon ice pops.
limes
luckily, i love lime.
saying that i love lime is probably an
understatement. i can never have enough.
and so, buttermilk-lime ice pops were born.

have you ever tasted buttermilk?
not good, right? and, yet. i can never resist
sampling just a tiny bit, even though i always
regret it. i just can never get over how unpleasant
it tastes. yet by adding just a couple ingredients
to make a dressing or a glaze, or now, ice pops,
it's harshness turns into tangy deliciousness.
lime zest
a lot of zest
limes, zested
and for these,
it really is only a couple of ingredients:
lime juice,
lime zest,
sugar and salt.
you zest,
you juice,
you mix,
you pour,
you freeze and
you're done.
about to freeze
but, i'll be honest with you
about one thing that's not
so much fun:
then, you wait.
for at least four hours.
or, if you're like us,
you wait for three days,
because well, you are really
tired and dessert is the last thing
on your mind once you start commuting.

but when you finally take a lick,
or a bite, if that's how you roll,
i think you'll find they were worth
the wait: tangy, tart, sweet and,
yes, icy. for an ice pop, they feel indulgent,
but they're not so bad as these
things go. and, they're bordering on
mysterious. larry guessed sour cream,
cardamom and many other things
before i told him buttermilk and lime.

and, now, i think i'm up for pops
that might take a little more work.
but, it's important to say that when
i made these, i hardly felt like a slacker.
specks of lime zest
buttermilk lime ice pops
adapted from bon appetit magazine
i have a confession: i have no idea what size molds i bought. and i thought they were big, but after using them once, i'm now thinking they're normal. so when i was making this recipe, i doubled it, but it was probably unnecessary, considering i had a ton left over. my mold makes six, this recipe originally called for eight 1/4 cup to 1/3 cup capacity molds. as for the lime zest - i learned after several botched attempts at perfectly distributing orange zest in the olive oil pound cake that it's best to take a minute and use your fingers to separate, before adding zest to your liquids. otherwise, they clump up around the whisk, or just settle into lumps into the final product.

3-4 juicy limes
3/4 cup sugar
pinch of salt
1 2/3 cups buttermilk

zest enough limes to measure 2 tablespoons (this took me two limes). juice enough limes to measure 1/3 cup lime juice.

in 4-cup measuring cup or bowl with pour spout, whisk together sugar, lime juice, lime peel and satl. whisk in buttermilk. divide mixture among ice pop molds, leaving 1/4 inch space on top. add tops; cover and freeze 4 hours, or until firm.

Thursday, October 1, 2009

sauteed onion, poppy seed and gruyere bread

baked poppy seed, onion and gruyere bread
our first stop in maine
was portland.
we had plotted out the trip
for months, finally settling
on a bed and breakfast -
i'm a hotel girl, usually -
just outside the port.
at first i was bummed.
i like the idea of car-free
vacations, of walking everywhere
and never worrying about parking.
i also like the idea of hotels.
to me, they provide anonymity
and
don't coerce you into sharing your life story
with strangers while eating
a (seemingly mandatory)
breakfast that required
you to set your alarm
because meals are served
promptly at 9 am.

(can you tell that we've stayed at
bed and breakfasts before?)

but, for many reasons,
we decided to stay at the
morrill mansion and i must say
that as soon as we were there,
i was happy. on the first day,
it poured. not just poured.
think - a hurricane in the islands
making its way north kind of rain.
it was freezing cold, too.
as we stepped from the plane,
into the cold watery onslaught,
i re-evaluated every piece of
clothing i brought,
kicking myself for
the sundresses and tank tops
and wondering where i
could buy a parka if
this kept up all week.
(i think i forgot where i was...hello.)

we rented a car and as we drove
the short drive, i freaked out
about anything i could possibly
think to freak out about:
this is our vacation and its raining hard
(not unlike our honeymoon),
larry is behind the wheel of a
car he is not familiar with,
does anyone in front of us
actually know how to drive in the rain?
and what was i thinking?
two pairs of flip-flops does not
a well-rounded shoe selection make.

when we finally got to the b&b,
my mind
was ready for a rest.
the innkeeper brought us upstairs,
handing us warm chocolate chip cookies
along the way, settled us into our
room with comfy chairs and a bed
with tons of pillows.
this could work, i thought.
then, i turned around, noticing
the stack of home and food magazines
and thought, scratch that,
this is nice.
they never give you the current
issue of food & wine in a hotel room.

it was still pouring.
we weren't really ready to
take portland by storm
when it was in the midst of one.
so instead, i grabbed the f&w,
and began to chill out,
starting with a story about
that i had never heard of,
located about 30 minutes away
from where we were staying.
humph.

and then, i turned to
the recipe for
pull-apart cheesy bread.
i probably would have read
it and continued on if not
for two things:
1) by far the biggest influencer -
they mentioned monkey bread.
my family? we're big fans of
monkey bread.
2) while i'm not so crazy
about poppy seeds, something
about my childhood made me
a sucker for bialys, with which
the poppy seed mixture shared
an obvious resemblance.

so i read the recipe once each day
(even though we woke up sunday,
and every day that followed to
gorgeous weather)
until we left for ogunquit,
willing myself to remember
to look up the bread when we got
home. a teeny tiny part of me toyed
with ripping it out of the magazine,
but then i flashbacked to every single
time that i read an article in a doctor's
office and the one page i've needed to finish
the story is half torn. so i left it there
for the next people visiting the mcguire room.

it took a few weeks and someone
mentioning to me
that they found a place where
poppy seeds are dirt cheap
(to which i thought,
i've never had a reason
to buy poppy seeds) before
the light went off in my head.
poppy seeds
so, i found the recipe,
gathered the ingredients -
purchased my first poppy seeds ever -
and thought, this shouldn't
be too bad.

as the onions sauteed,
i grated the cheese and measured
out the poppy seeds.
when the onion was
sweet
and tender,
i stirred in the poppy seeds,
transferred the lot to a plate
and waited patiently for
five minutes until i could
stir the cheese in.
so far, so good.
sauteed sweet onion and poppy seeds
the dough was simple, too.
flour
butter
baking soda and powder
salt
buttermilk.
i couldn't go wrong.

but when it was time to
dump the dough out on the counter,
i knew that i couldn't.
yes, the recipe said, soft dough,
but this? this would slide across
the counter, probably too liquidy
to be too sticky.
i added 1/2 cup more flour
to the mixture and it seemed firmer,
so i took a chance.
unfortunately, what was in front of me
was still not very close to dough.
bread dough
i'm not sure how much flour
i kneaded in,
but it was a lot - i'd dare to say
almost a cup more until
i could get it to work with me.

realizing that i would never
be able to roll the dough out,
let alone, cover it with
the poppy seeds and onions,
cut the whole thing into strips
and layer them,
i went to plan B:
praying, pleading and plotting.

i quartered the dough,
pressing the first piece into
the bottom of the loaf pan to
completely cover. i spread
one-third of the onion mixture
over that, and then cobbled together
pieces of dough from the second section
to make a cohesive layer.
each time i worried that i would not have
enough dough to make it, but somehow,
i was cut a break - it worked.
onion and poppy seed layer
i baked the bread,
keeping a close eye, not sure how
the four layers would cook,
opposed to the ten i was supposed
to have (where did i go wrong?)
and was relieved when it was out
of the oven in pretty much
the same amount of time.
however, this version?
not a looker.

for me,
it baked up almost
biscuit-like,
very tastily dotted with
cheesy sweet onions.
the poppy seeds? i guess
i can understand why
they are there.
slices of onion poppy seed bread
in its original form
and what i turned it into,
the bread is absolutely
an interesting alternative
to a loaf of crusty bread
or even a dinner-appropriate
quick-bread.
it is not monkey bread-like, in
my opinion. it is not in ball
form and you still have to cut
the bread - once the slices
are on the diner's plate they
can be pulled apart to
play with and enjoy.
however, this recipe gave
me a great idea and i hope
that you'll see a savory
monkey bread from me
sometime in the future.

but, the inspiration for
something new we can
play with
and
maybe one day, fall in love with?
looking back, its
probably worth a rainy
afternoon in maine.
our first day in maine
sauteed onion, poppy seed and gruyere bread
adapted from food & wine magazine
i was very torn - should i give you my cobbled together version or the original from the magazine? i think, that as long as i already gave you the wet-dough disclaimer, i should give you a chance to make good on my semi-disaster by posting the recipe as it was intended. just remember that if you have trouble, more flour will help and you can always make a patchwork version. the flavor is worth it, i think.

1 1/2 sticks cold, unsalted butter, divided
1 large sweet onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 tablespoon poppy seeds
kosher salt and ground pepper
1 cup shredded gruyere cheese (3 ounces)
2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading and dusting
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup buttermilk

heat the oven to 425˚f. grease 9 x 4 1/2" metal loaf pan (mine is 5 1/2" wide).

cube butter; place one stick back in fridge until ready to make the dough.

in large skillet over medium heat, melt remaining 1/2 stick butter. remove 2 tablespoons of butter to small bowl; cover and set aside. add onions to skillet and cook 8 minutes, or until onions are softened, but not browned. stir in poppy seeds and season with salt and pepper. transfer onion mixture to plate; chill 5 minutes, or until cooled slightly. stir in gruyere; set aside.

meanwhile, in food processor, pulse flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. add reserved chilled butter; pulse until butter is the size of peas. add the buttermilk and pulse 5 or 6 times, or until a soft dough forms.

turn dough out onto a well-floured work surface and knead 2 or 3 times. pat or roll the dough into a 2 x 24 inch rectangle. spread the onion mixture on top. cut the dough crosswise into 10 pieces. stack 9 pieces onion side up. top stack with remaining slice, onion side down. carefully place the stack in the prepared loaf pan. (as i mentioned above, i had to pat the dough into place inside the loaf pan, which worked, but it's clearly not the best method - the first layer is stress-free. the next ones though, you have to worry that you're going to get the onion mixture caught in the dough as you're trying to spread it.) either way, brush top dough layer with remaining butter.

bake on the center rack, 30 minutes, or until the loaf is golden brown and has risen. let the dough cool for at least 15 minutes, before unmolding and serving.

you can also make it ahead of time - it was just as good the second day. i wrapped it up in foil and reheated in a 350˚f oven.

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

i will stay strong


when i sat down to write this post,
to think about what i wanted
to say,
one thing struck me:
i couldn't concentrate thanks to
the overwhelming
urge
to make another batch
of these onion rings.

and really, that doesn't usually happen.
yes, i often really enjoy what
i make - otherwise, it would be kind
of cruel to share it with you and
then end a recipe with a little
asterisk that read
*i thought the pictures were pretty,
so i wanted to show you and tell
you the story of how it came to be, but
this cake actually tasted terrible, 
make at your own risk.
and sometimes, i'm excited
to make the dish again,
but it is not often that all i can
think is,
i want one. now.

so that should tell you something.
full disclosure:
i have always loved onion rings.
if given the option, i'm sure
i would choose them over fries.
i've always loved them 
beer battered,
dipped in tempura,
breaded,
and yes, even in a loaf,
which i realize is probably
high on the list 
of gluttonous foods.
but, it's very rare 
that i actually have some.
and when i do, i'm often overcome
by general guilt and overall grossness.
greasy foods leave me feeling...well, greasy.

but that doesn't mean 
that i don't
think that they 
look and smell
like the most amazing food ever.

a few weeks ago, we were running
out the door when my sister,
called from college,
slightly panicked.
she had promised her roommates
a surprise when they returned,
but after trying unsuccessfully
to recreate the recipe
for healthy onion rings
on the back of a cereal box,
she was left with eggy,
slick onions and a bowl
of clumpy crushed flakes.
we ran through several
fixes, all based on the limited
ingredients she had in
her apartment.
nothing worked and
she had to scratch the whole
thing.

later that night,
i remembered a recipe that i've
been considering for years:
ellie krieger's
they always looked very good,
but some commenters complained
here, too that everything just slid off
the onions, leaving a nude ring,
in its wake.

i had skipped the recipe 
up until now for two
main reasons. 
1) they looked very simple, 
but anything
involving breading 
always seems like
a project. 
i'm not sure why.
2) i never have buttermilk 
in the house
and it felt like a waste 
to buy a carton
for this side dish.

it had been weeks since my sister
had attempted to make
the onion rings,
but i hadn't stopped thinking
about her problem.
and, by now, 
i've made this salad,
and therefore, am the proud
owner of low-fat buttermilk.

from the get-go, 
i knew there would be a major
change when i made the rings.
ellie used crushed potato chips,
which to me, just sounded
weird. i worried that in 
the end, they would just
taste like potato chips.
so i used panko instead
and added a bit
of kosher salt
along with the cayenne pepper
she originally used.

then, i thought back
to sbp, 
or the standard breading procedure
that we discussed at length
in culinary school.
i knew i learned something there.
these tips though, aren't really so top secret
(but they really did help).
basically, you must coat 
the onions with flour 
before you do anything 
else, but you also must pat off
as much excess flour 
as possible
before dunking the rings in
buttermilk. 

then, even though
it might take longer, you must
let as much 
buttermilk drip off
as possible,
before tossing into the panko.
and, you really have to 
repeat this process,
one persnickety ring at a time.

it was oddly painless -
resulting in panko that stuck
to the onions, 
and did not clump together
in their bowl of crumbs.
when they were done,
i coated them well in cooking spray
(thinking again that i really
need to invest in an oil sprayer)
and popped them in the oven.
when they came out, 
i sprinkled a touch of kosher
salt over the golden rounds,
placed them in a bowl and thought,
wow, they really look like
like onion rings.

they tasted like them, too.
the coating was crisp
and adhered well to
the very tender
onion.
they were spicy, too, thanks to 
the cayenne.

i really loved these 
onion rings.
and while i wouldn't go
as far as to start making
them every night,
or even every week 
(i think at some point guilt would
kick in for these, too),
i will certainly make them again.
they're a nice way to splurge 
without regret, later.
but, considering the fact 
that i really still want one,
(just one more, that's all)
i won't lie to you:
these onion rings 
may just be habit-forming.

spicy baked onion rings
adapted from ellie krieger
besides using panko instead of potato chips, i followed the recipe relatively closely. one step that i skipped and may or may not do next time, was to grind the panko a little finer. on one hand, i loved the texture that this size grain lended to the rings. my argument for grinding would be that, as i was afraid would happen, the cayenne was unable to evenly incorporate and fell to the bottom. as a result, the rings coated last were significantly spicier. 

also, ellie's recipe instructs to only use the largest rings, but since the medium, pop-in-your-mouth rings are my favorite, i took my chances and just watched them closely. they were fine. i would save the small rings for another use.

1-2 large vidalia onions, peeled (i used one very large onion and it was plenty)
1/2 cup, plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, divided
1 cup low-fat buttermilk
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 cups panko breadcrumbs
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

heat oven to 450˚f. place aluminum foil on baking sheets (the recipe called for one - i needed two). coat with cooking spray or mist with oil. 

slice onion into 1/2" wide circles; carefully separate into rings, setting aside medium and large pieces; save small rings for another use. from one onion, i had 16 rings. pour 1/2 cup flour into large resealable plastic bag; add onion rings and shake to coat.

in small bowl, whisk together buttermilk, remaining flour, salt and ground pepper.

place panko in a separate small shallow bowl; add cayenne and season with kosher salt; set aside.

remove one onion from the flour; shaking and patting to remove excess flour. dip onion into buttermilk mixture to coat, turning if necessary. let excess buttermilk drip off. place onion in panko mixture and coat completely. place onion on baking sheet. repeat, one at a time, with remaining onions. coat onions well with cooking spray or oil. 

bake 1o minutes; spray onions again, place pan bake in oven, turning 180 degrees. bake 10 minutes more, or until the onions are tender and the breading is golden brown. sprinkle with kosher salt.