Showing posts with label honey. Show all posts
Showing posts with label honey. Show all posts

Sunday, June 7, 2009

how it comes to be

i tend to really think through
my dishes before making 
them. i may, for some reason
that i can't understand or explain,
decide to make a meal
wednesday, and then spend
sunday, monday and tuesday
thinking through the dish,
obsessively, trying
to really flesh out the 
best ingredients, best strategy,
best of everything, 
all the while, making
my way through the meals
the other three nights.
sometimes, the imaginary meal
stays in my head for weeks
before i finally make it into 
something real.

sometimes, the result is really
good like tofu parm
or this tuna sandwich.
other times, like the "hummus"
burgers that were a bust
and the cucumbers pickled
in apple cider vinegar
that i will never tell you about,
i really should have kept 
my creativity to myself.

but nevertheless, i plan it 
out and have a clear plan,
that interestingly enough,
i never mention to anyone.
i may, after all this thinking,
plan for heirloom tomatoes,
and then see grape tomatoes
and suddenly think, oh, that's better.
and i feel ok about it because
no one knows that wasn't THE plan.

or i may decide that i must have
tubes of squid for my made up meal, 
and then (like tonight),
be left completely confused and lost
in the middle of the store
when i realize they don't have 
any and i didn't have a backup plan.
in which case, i stop in my tracks,
turn to larry and 
demand that he tell me what he 
wants because i'm
uninspired. 
can't think anymore.
have the makings of too many meals in cart,
but no plan.
am not moving until i have a new meal to make.
too dramatic?

and that's the deal with this
blueberry salad.
i've been enamoured for years
by the watermelon and feta salads
that seem to pop up everywhere, 
may to june. i offered to make
one for memorial day a couple of 
weeks ago, but i was...turned down.

after that, i started thinking about what
other fruits would taste even
better next to salty feta,
and then, when i saw blueberries 
on sale,
the salad was born.
i spent a few days imagining
the salad, thinking that one
thing that the watermelon version
has going for it is that the melon
is a completely different texture,
while the soft berries wouldn't really
offer much resistance. 
i decided to add a toasted nut -
sweet pecans just sounded right.
to round out the mixture, i thought 
a small kick would
make the whole bowl come together.
and so, scallions were added.

as i sliced the scallions and carefully
cubed the feta, 
i had a feeling that this would
either be a huge hit
or a major disaster.
carrying on, i whisked together
a dressing, realizing i never actually
thought of the vinaigrette, and 
winging it from beginning
to end, kind of guessing that the
mixture should
be tangy, with a sweetness to round
the whole thing out.

i was really fortunate that the blueberries
were huge, unbelievably
sweet and boasting just the right
amount of tenderness. 
i stabbed one with a fork,
adding a piece of scallion,
a toasted pecan and 
a cube of cheese and lightly
dipped it into the dressing.
a test, i figured,
before i stirred them all together 
and potentially ruined a bunch
of perfectly good ingredients.
hmm...i could get used to this.

worrying about feta that
could disintegrate under the dressing
and too much stirring,
i opted to mix together the other
three ingredients first, then add the
dressing. once i was sure that the salad
was well combined, i
held my breath and carefully
folded in the cheese.

the salad sat for about 20 minutes
until the rest of the meal was finished,
which i think was the perfect amount
of time to let the flavors meld
and
the ingredients blend into a cohesive
side dish,
without the pecans softening, 
the scallions wilting or the cheese
breaking apart.

sweet and fruity, salty and creamy,
slightly sharp and fragrantly nutty,
the salad was just what i was 
after when setting out to make this 
dish, playing it over in my mind,
trying to decided if the feta should
be crumbled, sliced or cubed 
and wondering if i should add a 
shallots or lemon juice. 
in the end, and i don't often say this,
usually my harshest critic,
i think i got it right.
i don't think lemon was necessary.
i think the scallions were enough
and shallots, too, would have 
been too harsh.
and i think structured square 
pieces of white feta were ideal
next to the round colorful berries.
it was a relief.
feta and blueberry salad
to make this mixture into a heartier side dish or main course, i could absolutely see tossing the entire thing with salad greens (and dare i say, chicken?) or folding it into couscous or a cooked grain. as i've said, the dressing was a guessing game, so i'll tell you ahead of time, you may want to go up and down with the vinegar or the honey. and as usual, i went light on the olive oil. feel free to play with that, too. i used white balsamic vinegar so that the feta would not be stained, but i'm sure it would be just as good with regular balsamic.

3-4 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
1-2 teaspoons honey
kosher salt
cracked black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil

1 block (6 ounces) feta cheese
2 scallions, green and white parts sliced
1/3 cup broke up pecans pieces, toasted
1 pint big, sweet blueberries

in small bowl, whisk together vinegar, honey and salt and pepper to taste. whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in olive oil. taste and adjust seasonings. set aside.

cube feta: using sharp knife, cut feta into slices about 1/2-inch thick, keeping them lined up. rotate entire block and cut slices into sticks, about 1-2 long. cut sticks into 1/2" cubes. set aside.

in bowl, combine scallions, pecans and blueberries; drizzle in dressing and toss to combine. carefully fold feta into mixture just until combined. let sit about 20 minutes before serving.

Thursday, March 19, 2009

sweet, spicy, crunchy and creamy

the other night,
i made a really,
surprisingly
delicious
dinner -
hot and tender
brown rice,
chickpea chili
in a roasted
sweet potato
and a crunchy,
sweet and spicy
side.

it was a meal that
i thought would be
a throwaway -
one to satisfy the
ever pressing need
to put dinner on the table.
and truth be told,
i cooked up the pot
of brown rice in
case everything else was inedible.
but the garnet yams
that we roasted and
split open were unbelievably
delectable,
and the jalapeno-spiked,
tomato simmered
chickpeas were quite luscious,
especially when topped
with a dollop of
yogurt, a squeeze of lime
and chopped scallions.
i was thankful that
the dinner
was successful,
especially because the entire
plate was crafted
around one ingredient.
i couldn't help it.
as i picked up the
nopales cactus paddles
in the store,
i knew that on some
level, i would regret the
purchase.

not because they're
a lot of work
to prepare,
or because i didn't know
what to expect
from their flavor or texture,
but because i was
committing to something
on a day
that i am not always willing
to commit.

i find it really easy on a
sunday to pick meals for
the week and to stick
to them,
but choosing a meal on
friday for sunday?
that's hard.
you may think that you'll
be in the mood for a
long slow-cook meal,
only to wake up and realize
the sun is shining and
the kitchen is the
last place you want to be.
or you can plan for stir fry
and suddenly find yourself
bored as can be at 3 in the
afternoon, wishing
for a project.

so when i picked up
the paddles, i was worried
that i was stepping into a
trap - a tex-mex trap.

lo and behold,
sunday came and i
just wasn't feeling
them.
but, no turning back.
after complaining and
stalling by making cookies,
i decided they would
be best in alongside
a main meal,
cool and crunchy.

i knew i wanted
avocado
and oranges,
and jicama,
popped into my head, too.
and, i found a recipe
for a nopales, jicama and orange salad
in barbara pool fenzl's beautiful
it's like we shared a brain.

her salad was actually served
atop greens and used canned
cactus paddle,
and no avocado, red onions
or jalapeno were in sight,
but it was close enough
for inspiration.

fresh cactus paddles
need to be dethorned,
by using either a vegetable
peeler or sharp knife,
then sliced and double-
blanched to reduce
the somewhat slime-like
interior and tenderize
them.
yum, right?

once you've done
this, their flavor is
similar to a
tart green bean.
but better.
i think this salad
is worth all its
ingredients, but i also
think it's fair to say
that if you can't
find nopales,
fresh or canned,
and don't want to
use blanched green
beans, the other
components
can stand on their own.

and if you've never tried
jicama, run to the store
for the brown bulb.
its very crisp, almost
like a savory apple.
in all of my time introducing
people to jicama, i've only met
one person who didn't like
the slices
(you know who you are).
they are a great foil
to the juicy sweet oranges
and creamy avocado -
all three of them
benefit from the cayenne
in the dressing.

fenzl says the mixture should
be made just before serving,
and i certainly strengthened
that suggestion by adding
quick-to-brown avocados,
but our next day leftovers
may have been even better.

in the end, i was glad
that i got up on my feet,
found the sweet potato
recipe to round out the meal
and got to work with the
vegetable peeler.
not so bad for a
very pretty sunday
outside.
jicama salad with cactus paddle, orange and avocado
adapted from barbara pool fenzl's seasonal southwest cooking
this crunchy mixture was great with the soft sweet potato and chickpeas, but i think it would also be welcome next to a steak, over greens with shrimp as a light main meal or alongside fish. you can change the proportions according to what you like best. also, maybe i'm a glutton for punishment, but i always like to taste my jalapeno before i add the tiny specks to a dish. the one i used here was potent, so i seeded it and only used half. if it had been less in-your-face, i would have used a whole one and maybe kept the seeds. and the original recipe called for 1/4 cup olive oil - i tend to feel that a lot of oil over mellows other flavors in dressing, so i only used one tablespoon. if you don't want it to be so bright, feel free to increase the oil.

2 tbs. fresh orange juice
1 tbs. red wine vinegar
1 Tbs. honey
1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper
1/4 tsp. salt
5 grinds fresh black pepper
1 tbs. olive oil
2 cactus paddles
2 medium oranges
1 medium jicama, peeled, halved and cut into 1/2-inch sticks
1 avocado, pitted, peeled and diced
1/2 small red onion, diced
1/2 - 1 whole jalapeno, finely chopped

in bowl, whisk together first six ingredients; slowly whisk in olive oil. set aside.

using vegetable peeler or sharp knife, carefully remove prickly parts from paddles. halve paddles; cut each piece into 2-inch long strips. cook paddles in saucepot of salted boiling water 2 minutes; drain and run under cold running water until cool. repeat boiling water and rinsing process one more time. set aside.

using sharp knife, cut ends from oranges. stand oranges flat on cutting board and using your knife, peel skin and white pith from oranges, following the curve of the fruit. using sharp knife, cut supremes by removing edible fruit in wedges and the leaving membrane behind. discard membrane.

in bowl, combine cactus paddle, oranges, jicama, avocado, red onion and jalapeno. drizzle with a small amount of dressing, toss to coat. add more dressing, if necessary. serve remaining dressing on the side or
save for another use.