Showing posts with label jalapeno. Show all posts
Showing posts with label jalapeno. Show all posts

Sunday, March 14, 2010

turkey meatball banh mi

turkey meatball banh mi with pickled daikon and carrots
do you know how many things
i cook, bake, mix together that
you never hear about?
too many. so two weeks
ago, i made a pact with myself
that it all would change.
and then the screen went black
on the computer.
this is not some blogger
metaphor for writer's block.
it actually stopped functioning,
refused to produce an image.

no computer aside, we got really
lucky. the problem, it turns out,
was a known malfunction and fixed
for free. but, it kind of put things
on-hold here for a while,
dinners piling up on the
memory card
and some meals, not even
making it to the camera at all.

but now, the computer's back,
most of the pictures are downloaded
and i'm trying really hard to recall
the details of some of the dinners
i've made over the past couple weeks.

but one dish that i have zero
trouble remembering was last
sunday's:
turkey meatball banh mi.

i've had my eye on the recipe
for 4 months, ever since
bon appetit published a
pork version in january.
truth be told, i wanted to make
these sandwiches the minute
i saw the recipe, so it seems
like i've known about them for
much, much longer.

i know banh mi is quite the craze.
or it was or it will be or something.
but, i first stumbled across
banh mi two years ago, at an
event in which i was partially responsible
for assembling minis, layered on a crostini
that would later be passed around
on pretty little trays.
it wasn't trendy. it was work.
they were were quite
a job to put together:
from the little i can remember:
a smear of chicken pate,
shreds of marinated chicken,
a cilantro leaf,
chiffonades of basil,
pickled carrots and daikon,
microgreens and a tiny
dollop of garlicky mayonnaise.

the chicken,
i could have done without,
but i'm a sucker for liver
and anything pickled.
i went home knowing i was
late to the banh mi game and
googled it anyway.
what i learned:
they are crazy cheap,
can be found in little tiny shops
in the city and, properly,
are served on gum-shattering
crusty breads. i wanted one.

it took months before i finally
set out to make one on my own,
only to admit, that even though
i'd never had the real thing,
these were not quite right.
that weekend, we visited
colleen and christian in philly,
told them about my attempt at
banh mi two nights before and then
became unbelievably excited when
i found out that they didn't know
what banh mi was. i was, at this point,
a wee bit obsessed with banh mi.

cut to the next day,
when the four of us,
on the way to somewhere else,
unknowingly parked
in front of a tiny, tiny
storefront, reading banh mi.
we were coming from dim sum
and not very hungry, but
we knew that we had to buy one.
for $4, we bought a gigantic
chicken banh mi, asked for it to
be split four ways and stood
on the sidewalk in front,
eating our share.
none of us were especially hungry.
all of us, i think, could have split another.
colleen talks about it here.

so, when i saw this recipe,
i wanted in. and last week,
i finally got it together
to make them.
i'll say this:
they were easy,
they were fun
and most of the work
(except for the cooking
of the meatballs) can be
done earlier in the day so that
when you're ready to serve,
all that's left is assembly.
not only that, but i think
everything will taste even
better with a few hours
of sitting time.

i'll admit,
i wasn't crazy about the
pickling part of this recipe.
for everything - and i've thought about this,
i really do mean everything - else
that i've ever pickled, i've
heated the vinegar mixture first.
here, not only was the mixture
just swished together at room
temperature, but it also used,
in my opinion, way too little
vinegar. yes, this may be because
instead of grating
the carrots
and the daikon,
i julienned them,
but still: a 1/4 cup of liquid
for 4 cups of veggies?
so, i kept adding rice wine vinegar
until i realized that i had added a little
over 1 1/4 cups. i felt better about
the chances of all of the veggies pickling,
instead of just the select few on the bottom.
it was good and vinegary -
especially on the leftovers the next night.
still, next time, i think i'll use this standby.

instead of pate or soft garlic butter,
these sandwiches call for mayonnaise
that's been spiked with sriracha and sliced scallions.
i used low-fat mayo,
squeezed in extra hot sauce
and added more sliced scallions.
this spread almost made me change
my negative feelings about mayonnaise.
basil, garlic, scallions
and the meatballs.
when i change a recipe from
beef or pork or lamb
to turkey,
there is always a voice
in the back of my head taunting me,
telling me that it's already ruined.
and then there's larry,
who is very good-natured about
ground turkey (probably just
happy to be getting some meat,
if i'm being honest), but who i think
also feels cheated when he sees
that a recipe planned for another meat,
especially pork.
and to top it all off,
i chose this day to take a stand against
skillet-cooked meatballs and instead,
bake them in the oven.
i was thinking disaster.
ground turkey, scallions, garlic, basil, fish sauce, hot sauce
and yes, it's true that we have
no idea how they would taste with pork
or browned in sesame oil.
but, after eating the baked meatballs
made with turkey,
we really don't care.
these are little flavor-bombs,
brimming with
fresh basil,
garlic,
scallions,
fish sauce and more.
they were tiny, and if not
intended for a sandwich,
could probably all have been eaten,
one by one,
plucked straight from the baking sheet.
they were potato chip-good.
cilantro, baguette
pickled jalapeno, cilantro, baguette
in case i haven't made it clear,
we loved, loved, loved
this home-cook's version of
banh mi. think flavorful,
without hours prepping
and crowd friendly
without new food intimidation.
or, just think: yum.
banh mi close-up
turkey meatball banh mi
adapted from bon appetit
if you start researching, you learn very quickly that banh mi enthusiasts are all adamant about one thing: if you don't have the right bread, you shouldn't even bother making it. in fact, when i asked our local vietnamese restaurant if they ever planned to add banh mi to their menu, they said that they wouldn't dare without finding the right bread vendor. the baguette should be very crunchy on the outside with a super soft interior. i have not been able to find anything like that around here. the first night, i used a type of bread called fizzle from a korean bakery around the block (this fizzle, by the way, could be a blog post of its own). it was not very crunchy, but i loved it. the next night, i used a french baguette that was very crunchy - larry preferred this one. we agreed to disagree.

and as for the changes - i've included them all below, from cutting instead of grating the veggies (i still had just about 4 cups carrots and daikon total), increasing the liquid and decreasing the sugar in the pickling, to using low-fat mayo for the spread to drizzling the (turkey-based) meatballs with sesame oil before baking, instead of browning them in the oil. i also halved the ground black pepper in the meatballs to 1/2 teaspoon - i didn't want the seasoning taking over the other flavors. and, i used pickled jalapeno instead of fresh - not traditional, but delicious. the original recipe is here.

pickled carrots and daikon
5 small-medium carrots (this is what was in the store), peeled and cut into tiny planks
1 large daikon (about 1 pound), peeled and cut into tiny planks
1 1/4 cups unseasoned rice wine vinegar
3 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt

in bowl, combine all ingredients, stirring well. let sit at room temperature least 2 hours, stirring occasionally.

spicy mayonnaise spread
2/3 cup low-fat mayonnaise
1 tablespoon hot chili sauce, like sriracha
3 scallions, trimmed, white and green parts thinly sliced

in bowl, stir together all ingredients. taste; add more chili sauce to taste, if desired. (i did.)

turkey meatballs
1 pound ground turkey (i used 85% lean to accommodate for the no-pork factor)
1/4 cup thinly sliced and chopped basil
4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
3 scallions, thinly sliced and roughly chopped
1 tablespoon fish sauce (i splashed in a tiny bit extra)
1 tablespoon hot chili sauce, like sriracha (again, i added an extra squeeze)
1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon (or less) sesame oil

line large rimmed baking sheet with foil (coated with cooking spray) or parchment paper.

in bowl, combine all ingredients, mixing just until incorporated. using 1 tablespoon measure, form 1-inch meatballs; place on baking sheet. cover and place in fridge.

when ready:
heat oven to 375˚f. drizzle meatballs with sesame oil. bake 8 minutes. flip meatballs and bake 8-9 minutes more, or until cooked through. (at this point, i turned on the broiler and broiled them for about 2 minutes, shaking the pan once midway through, just to crisp up the exterior of the meatballs. i was glad that i added this step, but i don't know that it's necessary.)

banh mi
we really enjoy pickled jalapenos and added a bunch to the sandwiches, and even more the second night. like the cilantro, however, if you're not a fan, don't feel that you have to use these. adapt them to your taste.

4 small-medium baguettes
spicy mayonnaise spread
fresh cilantro sprigs (about 16), broken into pieces
pickled jalapeno (about 18 slices)
turkey meatballs
pickled daikon and carrots

split baguettes down the center; gently remove most of the interior from the baguette, making sure to keep the shell in tact. spread inside of bread with spicy mayonnaise. add cilantro sprigs and pickled jalapenos.

line baguettes with hot meatballs; top with pickled carrots and daikons. (i also added some cilantro leaves for color, but if i wasn't taking a picture, i'm not sure i'd bother.)

Monday, February 22, 2010

cottage canoes

chili table
i have been writing this
blog post for two weeks.
yes, two weeks.
at first, i was going to
tell you about every recipe
i made at the super bowl,
because, really, i thought they
were all worth it,
each deserving their own
blog post and story, because
really, each had one.

then, when it became a week
since super bowl sunday,
and still no post, it seemed
absolutely silly to talk about
the super bowl when everyone
else had moved onto
valentine's day and mardi gras.
so, i tried to condense five
recipes into one post -
a not lazy. rustic. first.
but alas, it just didn't work
and five recipes are an awful
lot to tell you about in one
sitting.

and the more
i thought about it, the more
i wanted to tell you about them,
but the further we were from super bowl
and i felt trapped, because i didn't just
want to jump ahead to another recipe.
it was a terrible circle of
self-loathing and blogging inadequacy.
so tonight when i was driving home from
work, it struck me:
move on, don't look back -
it's just a blog.
so here, i finally got over myself.
i'm giving you brief stories with links,
and a recipe for what i think
was a crowd favorite.
and then, maybe, we can all
just be ok.

--
last year, i swore that
this year's super bowl would
be much easier on me,
mentally.

i swore that i would not
spend hours stressing
over what we would eat,
or hours cooking
whatever it is i finally
decide upon and
that i would write
about it all the next day
(well that part wasn't in the post,
but in my head. clearly,
this is where i failed miserably).

looking back,
i guess i'll have to take
one out of three.
and because i think
every recipe is worth sharing,
but it has taken me an unspeakably
long time to tell you about them,
here they are,
one by one.

i decided very quickly that
i wanted to host a mini chili
party, similar to what my mom
used to do when we were growing up:
three or four soups would
simmer on the stove and guests would get
a bowl,
a table full of toppings and
an unlimited pass to the saucepots.

picking the chilies,
were easy, too.
i remembered two that i've made in the past,
both found on epicurious,
one out of bon appetit,
the other, originally, in gourmet.
diced poblano
diced sweet potatoes
the first was vegetarian,
a hodgepodge of
onions
black beans
sweet potatoes
poblanos
and garlic,
all simmered in a couple cups
of orange juice.
i chopped everything,
save for the sweet potatoes
the night before and when it
was time to make, emptied
each bag into the pot, one by one.
for some reason, this pre-planning
on my part, thrilled me to no end.
while the mixture was good the
night of the super bowl,
i really wish i had prepared it
the night before - it was much
more delicious the next day.
sauce for chicken chili
the second,
equally simple,
featured only,
chicken pulled off a rotisserie bird
and pinto beans.
these are simmered inside a blender sauce of
dried chilies,
stewed tomatoes,
chicken broth,
nuts,
cilantro,
onion and garlic.
i couldn't find the new mexico dried chilies
called for in the dish. instead, i used simply,
dried green chilies, which worked well,
but i do not know enough about chilies
to be able to tell how how different the
final flavor was.

i knew they would be good.
they were easy.
and they were fast.
cheese, lime and scallions in halved jalapenos
this of course,
gave me plenty of time to focus
on appetizers.
both of which, again, i picked
pretty quickly.
i decided to revisit a snack i'd
made years ago for a barbecue
at larry's, when we were first dating.
i had convinced lauren to come with me -
i was way too afraid to go alone.
and, after stumbling across a recipe for
previously unheard of cottage canoes,
i decided that i would charm
his friends with my cooking.

cottage canoes,
the homemade,
non-fried version of
jalapeno poppers -
named, if i remember correctly,
for their resemblance to the boats
that line the cottage lakes
in canada -
seemed like the perfect way to
win guys over.

instead, i burned my fingers
on the peppers, could not figure out
a good method for stuffing,
or breading,
realized too late that i had to learn
larry's oven to bake them and
then, understood that while lauren
and i were very prompt for the party,
most people would not show up
to this all-day summer bash
for many more hours.

lauren,
larry,
his brother, david,
and i,
ate them ourselves
and we spent a long time
discussing their name.

it had been quite a while since i made
cottage canoes -
i couldn't even remember which
cookbook i had found them in -
but i found a recipe online,
and figured that was all i needed.

i tried my hardest to slice most
of the peppers so that they
each had a stem "handle"
and when i made the cheese
mixture - to which
i added chopped onions,
lime juice and hot sauce,
i let it sit out and
soften so that i could pipe the cheese
into the cavity of the peppers.
i also convinced larry
to be the egg dunker so that
i could quickly pass the wet peppers
through breadcrumbs.
much easier this time around.

these baked much better than i remembered -
the peppers softened into pleasant bites,
the cheese melty and the very thin
breading, there just enough to count.
after a few, lauren noted that eating these
was a game of jalapeno roulette:
some had such little spice that you forgot
they could have heat and the next one
would zap you and then cling
to your tongue for dear life, refusing to
relinquish its burn-your-mouth hold.
we kind of loved it.
ready to serve
was a should-i? or shouldn't-i? add in.
as part of my job,
i sometimes teach children's cooking classes.
a couple months ago,
i had the bright idea that it would be fun
to make soft pretzels with the kids.
the day of, at the end of january,
i was a ball of nerves,
imagining burnt dough,
not cooked dough,
not pretzel-tasting dough,
or worse.
but in the end - thanks to a lot of help -
they came together beautifully.
pretzel bites
so, of course, i thought,
pretzel bites for super bowl.
i can do this, i thought:
you make a yeast dough,
set it aside to rise,
cut into shape,
boil in baking soda-laced water,
then coat with egg,
sprinkle with salt
and bake.
and these? they were easy,
but of course, they had to be
made day of.

so somehow,
in spite of myself,
it was 3pm the day of the super bowl.
i had been cooking since 8:30,
was still in my pajamas,
and my coffee - my coffee that i look
so forward to every morning - sat
mostly untouched.
brown butter and salt rice krispies squares
thank goodness i had made the dessert,
from smitten kitchen, the night before.
(side note: this is the best dessert to make
when you are in a hurry. the entire thing
takes less than 10 minutes to mix together
and everyone will love this sophisticated
version of a childhood treat.)

another year.
another super bowl.
and now, i can switch my focus
back to where it belongs -
the end of february and
the dinners that come with it.
breaded cottage canoes
cottage canoes
adapted from the canadian food network
i don't remember enough to tell you if i made the same recipe both times, but i can tell you one thing for certain: last time i did not tinker with it. this time, i couldn't stop. i just like things to pop with flavor, not just be cheesy. so i increased the scallions and added onions, lime juice, hot sauce and a clove of garlic - all things that i think made a difference in the end.

12 jalapeno peppers, halved
1 1/2 cups extra sharp cheddar cheese, finely shredded (i used the smallest hole on my box grater)
1/4 cup mayonnaise
3/4 teaspoon worcestershire sauce
1/2 lime, juiced
10 drops garlic-lime hot sauce
2 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced
1/4 small onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
2 eggs, beaten
1 cup breadcrumbs (seasoned, if you want)

heat oven 350˚f. using small spoon, remove seeds and membranes from peppers. place peppers, cut side up, on a flat surface.

in bowl, combine cheese, mayonnaise, worcestershire sauce, lime juice, hot sauce, scallions, onion and garlic; set aside until very soft. transfer to a small plastic bag. twist bag to secure and snip corner. pipe cheese mixture into pepper cavities. using your finger, flatten cheese.

chill peppers at least 1 hour.

dip peppers, one at a time, into beaten egg. let as much egg drip off as possible and then coat with bread crumbs, shaking off excess. place breaded pepper on greased baking sheet. gently coat with cooking spray or olive oil spray.

bake 15-20 minutes, or until peppers are cooked through, the cheese is melted and the tops are just golden brown.