Showing posts with label cilantro. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cilantro. Show all posts

Sunday, March 14, 2010

turkey meatball banh mi

turkey meatball banh mi with pickled daikon and carrots
do you know how many things
i cook, bake, mix together that
you never hear about?
too many. so two weeks
ago, i made a pact with myself
that it all would change.
and then the screen went black
on the computer.
this is not some blogger
metaphor for writer's block.
it actually stopped functioning,
refused to produce an image.

no computer aside, we got really
lucky. the problem, it turns out,
was a known malfunction and fixed
for free. but, it kind of put things
on-hold here for a while,
dinners piling up on the
memory card
and some meals, not even
making it to the camera at all.

but now, the computer's back,
most of the pictures are downloaded
and i'm trying really hard to recall
the details of some of the dinners
i've made over the past couple weeks.

but one dish that i have zero
trouble remembering was last
sunday's:
turkey meatball banh mi.

i've had my eye on the recipe
for 4 months, ever since
bon appetit published a
pork version in january.
truth be told, i wanted to make
these sandwiches the minute
i saw the recipe, so it seems
like i've known about them for
much, much longer.

i know banh mi is quite the craze.
or it was or it will be or something.
but, i first stumbled across
banh mi two years ago, at an
event in which i was partially responsible
for assembling minis, layered on a crostini
that would later be passed around
on pretty little trays.
it wasn't trendy. it was work.
they were were quite
a job to put together:
from the little i can remember:
a smear of chicken pate,
shreds of marinated chicken,
a cilantro leaf,
chiffonades of basil,
pickled carrots and daikon,
microgreens and a tiny
dollop of garlicky mayonnaise.

the chicken,
i could have done without,
but i'm a sucker for liver
and anything pickled.
i went home knowing i was
late to the banh mi game and
googled it anyway.
what i learned:
they are crazy cheap,
can be found in little tiny shops
in the city and, properly,
are served on gum-shattering
crusty breads. i wanted one.

it took months before i finally
set out to make one on my own,
only to admit, that even though
i'd never had the real thing,
these were not quite right.
that weekend, we visited
colleen and christian in philly,
told them about my attempt at
banh mi two nights before and then
became unbelievably excited when
i found out that they didn't know
what banh mi was. i was, at this point,
a wee bit obsessed with banh mi.

cut to the next day,
when the four of us,
on the way to somewhere else,
unknowingly parked
in front of a tiny, tiny
storefront, reading banh mi.
we were coming from dim sum
and not very hungry, but
we knew that we had to buy one.
for $4, we bought a gigantic
chicken banh mi, asked for it to
be split four ways and stood
on the sidewalk in front,
eating our share.
none of us were especially hungry.
all of us, i think, could have split another.
colleen talks about it here.

so, when i saw this recipe,
i wanted in. and last week,
i finally got it together
to make them.
i'll say this:
they were easy,
they were fun
and most of the work
(except for the cooking
of the meatballs) can be
done earlier in the day so that
when you're ready to serve,
all that's left is assembly.
not only that, but i think
everything will taste even
better with a few hours
of sitting time.

i'll admit,
i wasn't crazy about the
pickling part of this recipe.
for everything - and i've thought about this,
i really do mean everything - else
that i've ever pickled, i've
heated the vinegar mixture first.
here, not only was the mixture
just swished together at room
temperature, but it also used,
in my opinion, way too little
vinegar. yes, this may be because
instead of grating
the carrots
and the daikon,
i julienned them,
but still: a 1/4 cup of liquid
for 4 cups of veggies?
so, i kept adding rice wine vinegar
until i realized that i had added a little
over 1 1/4 cups. i felt better about
the chances of all of the veggies pickling,
instead of just the select few on the bottom.
it was good and vinegary -
especially on the leftovers the next night.
still, next time, i think i'll use this standby.

instead of pate or soft garlic butter,
these sandwiches call for mayonnaise
that's been spiked with sriracha and sliced scallions.
i used low-fat mayo,
squeezed in extra hot sauce
and added more sliced scallions.
this spread almost made me change
my negative feelings about mayonnaise.
basil, garlic, scallions
and the meatballs.
when i change a recipe from
beef or pork or lamb
to turkey,
there is always a voice
in the back of my head taunting me,
telling me that it's already ruined.
and then there's larry,
who is very good-natured about
ground turkey (probably just
happy to be getting some meat,
if i'm being honest), but who i think
also feels cheated when he sees
that a recipe planned for another meat,
especially pork.
and to top it all off,
i chose this day to take a stand against
skillet-cooked meatballs and instead,
bake them in the oven.
i was thinking disaster.
ground turkey, scallions, garlic, basil, fish sauce, hot sauce
and yes, it's true that we have
no idea how they would taste with pork
or browned in sesame oil.
but, after eating the baked meatballs
made with turkey,
we really don't care.
these are little flavor-bombs,
brimming with
fresh basil,
garlic,
scallions,
fish sauce and more.
they were tiny, and if not
intended for a sandwich,
could probably all have been eaten,
one by one,
plucked straight from the baking sheet.
they were potato chip-good.
cilantro, baguette
pickled jalapeno, cilantro, baguette
in case i haven't made it clear,
we loved, loved, loved
this home-cook's version of
banh mi. think flavorful,
without hours prepping
and crowd friendly
without new food intimidation.
or, just think: yum.
banh mi close-up
turkey meatball banh mi
adapted from bon appetit
if you start researching, you learn very quickly that banh mi enthusiasts are all adamant about one thing: if you don't have the right bread, you shouldn't even bother making it. in fact, when i asked our local vietnamese restaurant if they ever planned to add banh mi to their menu, they said that they wouldn't dare without finding the right bread vendor. the baguette should be very crunchy on the outside with a super soft interior. i have not been able to find anything like that around here. the first night, i used a type of bread called fizzle from a korean bakery around the block (this fizzle, by the way, could be a blog post of its own). it was not very crunchy, but i loved it. the next night, i used a french baguette that was very crunchy - larry preferred this one. we agreed to disagree.

and as for the changes - i've included them all below, from cutting instead of grating the veggies (i still had just about 4 cups carrots and daikon total), increasing the liquid and decreasing the sugar in the pickling, to using low-fat mayo for the spread to drizzling the (turkey-based) meatballs with sesame oil before baking, instead of browning them in the oil. i also halved the ground black pepper in the meatballs to 1/2 teaspoon - i didn't want the seasoning taking over the other flavors. and, i used pickled jalapeno instead of fresh - not traditional, but delicious. the original recipe is here.

pickled carrots and daikon
5 small-medium carrots (this is what was in the store), peeled and cut into tiny planks
1 large daikon (about 1 pound), peeled and cut into tiny planks
1 1/4 cups unseasoned rice wine vinegar
3 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt

in bowl, combine all ingredients, stirring well. let sit at room temperature least 2 hours, stirring occasionally.

spicy mayonnaise spread
2/3 cup low-fat mayonnaise
1 tablespoon hot chili sauce, like sriracha
3 scallions, trimmed, white and green parts thinly sliced

in bowl, stir together all ingredients. taste; add more chili sauce to taste, if desired. (i did.)

turkey meatballs
1 pound ground turkey (i used 85% lean to accommodate for the no-pork factor)
1/4 cup thinly sliced and chopped basil
4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
3 scallions, thinly sliced and roughly chopped
1 tablespoon fish sauce (i splashed in a tiny bit extra)
1 tablespoon hot chili sauce, like sriracha (again, i added an extra squeeze)
1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon (or less) sesame oil

line large rimmed baking sheet with foil (coated with cooking spray) or parchment paper.

in bowl, combine all ingredients, mixing just until incorporated. using 1 tablespoon measure, form 1-inch meatballs; place on baking sheet. cover and place in fridge.

when ready:
heat oven to 375˚f. drizzle meatballs with sesame oil. bake 8 minutes. flip meatballs and bake 8-9 minutes more, or until cooked through. (at this point, i turned on the broiler and broiled them for about 2 minutes, shaking the pan once midway through, just to crisp up the exterior of the meatballs. i was glad that i added this step, but i don't know that it's necessary.)

banh mi
we really enjoy pickled jalapenos and added a bunch to the sandwiches, and even more the second night. like the cilantro, however, if you're not a fan, don't feel that you have to use these. adapt them to your taste.

4 small-medium baguettes
spicy mayonnaise spread
fresh cilantro sprigs (about 16), broken into pieces
pickled jalapeno (about 18 slices)
turkey meatballs
pickled daikon and carrots

split baguettes down the center; gently remove most of the interior from the baguette, making sure to keep the shell in tact. spread inside of bread with spicy mayonnaise. add cilantro sprigs and pickled jalapenos.

line baguettes with hot meatballs; top with pickled carrots and daikons. (i also added some cilantro leaves for color, but if i wasn't taking a picture, i'm not sure i'd bother.)

Sunday, October 18, 2009

green shrimp and scallop posole

shrimp and scallop posole
you know those recipes that you
see, pull and stash for months
or even years, waiting for the
right night or occasion?
(we all know i've done that
once or, ok, many times.)

well, what happens if
before you get around to
making it, someone else unknowingly
makes it for you? and what happens
if that someone happens to be
your husband and it is more
delicious than you had imagined?

well, then you are lucky.
as lucky as i was wednesday night,
when i was asked to pick up
a can of hominy and then was
greeted by this show-stopping
vision:
mise en place
perfect mise en place.
i actually clapped with joy
at the sight -
vegetables, chopped
and separated into
ready-to-cook
piles.
i had to take a picture.
then, i did something that
i regret.

i left the room.
i had things to do and
clearly, he had everything
under control (see: picture).
i knew he was making a posole,
but that was it, information-wise.

i did not walk back in until
he was ladling the lovely-smelling
soup into bowls and sprinkling
them with freshly chopped cilantro.
i grabbed another picture.

i wish i had stayed in the kitchen
the whole time, taking pictures
and watching the meal
come to life, because
let me tell you:
the end result was unbelievable.

slightly spicy and briny,
thanks to the clam juice
and tomatillo salsa base,
textured with earthy hominy
and onions
and brimming with
shrimp and sea scallops.
one bite in, i realized two things:
this was the posole recipe i pulled
from bon appetit years ago and
this is probably my favorite thing
larry has ever made.

he's made good things before.
and great things, too.
but, this? this i would go back
to a restaurant for and order again
on the repeat visit.
next time,
i would just
take more pictures.
garlic, sun-dried tomatoes, onions
green shrimp and scallop posole
adapted from bon appetit magazine
larry followed the recipe very closely - he only modified two things. first, he used sun-dried tomatoes that were not packed in oil, they plumped up just the same once heated and simmered. (although, for me, the sun-dried tomatoes at all, are optional.) second, he reduced the scallops - which he cooked perfectly, i will add - to only 1/2 pound without adverse results. i've incorporated his changes, below.

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup chopped onion (if i did this, i would probably just use all of a medium-to-large onion)
3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
3 cups (or more) bottled clam juice
1 can (15 ounces) white hominy, drained and rinsed
1 cup salsa verde (tomatillo salsa), medium or mild
2 tablespoons finely chopped sun-dried tomatoes
1 tablespoon finely grated lime peel
1 pound uncooked large shrimp (they looked to me 18-22 count), peeled and deveined
1/2 pound large sea scallops, halved horizontally
4 tablespoons chopped cilantro, divided (i think he may have used more)

in large deep skillet over medium-high heat, warm oil. add onion; cook 5 minutes, or until tender, stirring occasionally. add garlic and cook 30 seconds more, stirring constantly. add 3 cups clam juice, hominy, salsa verde, sun-dried tomatoes and lime peel to the skillet. bring to a boil; reduce heat to low and simmer 5 minutes.

add shrimp, scallops and cilantro to the broth, adding more clam juice to thin, if necessary. simmer 3 minutes, or just until seafood is just opaque in the center. season with salt and pepper, if desired. divide amongst bowls; sprinkle with remaining chopped cilantro.

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

an (almost) 20 minute trio



this weekend, we had our friends, lauren and jon, 
over to watch the super bowl.
it was the second year in a row, 
that we held
our party for four.

in 2008, the giants were playing (see, i remembered!),
and it was a very serious day in our house.
i planned meticulously 
and went all out, football-style:
spicy sweet glazed wings
garlic rubbed potato skins
scallion-cayenne-lime dip
macaroni and cheese
and 
peanut butter mousse with grape fluff
(ok, that last one wasn't really 
sportsy 
or tough,
or manly,
but, i was in a marshmallow/fluff phase and
determined to try out a new recipe when faced
with a ready and willing audience.)

this year, however, was a whole different story:
the giants didn't make it,
i kind of knew who was playing 
and i guess i sort of gave the meal thought on friday,
when i picked up tomatillos, limes, a jalapeno and avocados.
but that was it.
i woke up sunday morning 
sans plan, 
a pit in my stomach
and a determination not to repeat
last year's menu.
an hour later, i was pretty sure 
that i was destined to call lauren
at 5 pm, apologize and beg her
to pick up a pizza.

the morning was spent, wracking my brain - useless
the computer - overwhelming
and larry - no wings? really?

i briefly contemplated 
chili - chicken, vegetable and cornbread-topped,
make-your-own quesadillas, tostadas and sandwiches
before finally landing, thank goodness,
on mexican lasagna.

it was simple, i could assemble ahead of time,
bake when they got there, serve from one dish,
and most importantly, make use of the ingredients 
i had purchased two days before. because really,
what i love most about cooking for friends, 
are the appetizers
and the desserts.
the meal, in between, often gets lost for me, even though
i feel a ridiculously strong pull to match my courses.

so, after spending literally hours planning,
and taking a trip to the store to fight other last minute shoppers
lingering extra long in the chip aisle and staring at shrimp rings,
i braced myself to make the three appetizers,
all dips: 
roasted tomatillo salsa
smoky black bean
guacamole.
they were so simple that it was over fast, and i thought, 
as i often do, why don't i just plan the 
main meal around the starters? (next year, someone remind me, please.)

because it just made sense
that while i was roasting quartered tomatillos, roughly chopped onion pieces,
garlic cloves and a jalapeno for the salsa,
that i should throw
the ingredients for the black bean dip in the food processor. 
by the time i had tasted and tweaked the beans, then tasted and tweaked some more, 
the vegetables were beautifully browned and salsa-ready.

when combined, the beans offered just enough mellowness 
that you feel you're eating something simple, 
smooth and hearty and easy-going, 
with a back heat that makes you want more and 
start to believe
that you're noshing on something special.
and the salsa,
while deep in flavor, thanks to the roasted vegetable-only 
mixture, offers a bright
note that you can only achieve by blending
them with an additional dose of raw onions and garlic 
and, of course,
lime juice.


and, the guacamole.
please, if you take anything away from this super bowl saga,
let it be this:
it is so, so, so easy to make your own guacamole.
there's no need to buy a seasoning packet or 
pick up a ready-made container.
i swear it took me 5 minutes total for a from-scratch batch
and i've been accused of being a slow-poke in the kitchen.

they were a hit 
(i heard better than the jar murmurs).
and when it was time to serve
the lasagna,
i looked around and thought,
sure, it's probably better that i didn't expect
my guests to snack on chips all night,
but, truth be told,
we probably didn't even need 
the bubbly dish.

these are all often-made, off-the-cuff recipes that i tried to quantify. but as usual, for recipes like these, have fun adding a little more garlic, cutting back on the lime juice or mixing in an something - like scallions, maybe - that you're crazy about. a lot of them, luckily, use similar ingredients, so you can get away with buying 1 bunch of cilantro, extra large onions or tomatoes instead of the medium ones specified and squeezing a couple of limes at once so that you don't have to torture the cut, which inevitably seems to appear on your finger when you're handling citrus, multiple times throughout the day.

smoky black bean 
smoked paprika is our new favorite spice. its reminiscent of the seasoning on barbecue potato chips (in a good way, i think) and, since we've discovered it, has really helped improve the flavor of many dishes. i think it was made just to be paired with black beans.

1 medium tomato, cored and chopped
1/2 medium onion, peeled and chopped
1/4 cup chopped cilantro (washed and dried)
2 cloves garlic, peeled and halved
1 lime, juiced
2 cans black beans, drained and rinsed
1-2 Tbs. hot sauce, depending on your taste and heat of your sauce (I used Goya)
1 1/2 Tbs. ground cumin
1 Tbs. smoked paprika

In bowl of food processor, combine chopped tomato, onion, cilantro, garlic and lime juice; sprinkle with a dash of kosher salt. Pulse just until chopped. Add black beans, hot sauce, ground cumin and smoked paprika. Run food processor until mixture is smooth. Season with salt. Taste; add more cumin, smoked paprika, hot sauce, lime juice or salt, until it suits your taste. Transfer mixture to a bowl; cover and keep in the fridge until ready to serve. Can be made 1 day ahead. 

roasted tomatilla salsa
i swear, it wasn't until i started this blog that i realized how much i adore roasting and more roasting. but, plain and simple, i think it's the answer to making questionable or out-of-season vegetables seem decadent and a way to truly deepen their flavor. this salsa, is not the kind of loose slip-off-the-chip type you may be used to. rather, because the only real liquid is lime juice, it's firmer and much more likely to show a dent when a bit is scooped from the bowl. if you're in the market for a pourable version, simply add a 1/4 to 1/2 cup chicken broth, vegetable broth or water before blending.

8-10 tomatillos
1 small onion, peeled, halved and divided
1 jalapeno, halved and seeded (keep the seeds in if you like it spicy)
5 cloves garlic, peeled, ends trimmed and divided
1/4 cup cilantro (washed and dried)
1/2 lime, juiced

Heat oven to 400˚F. Remove papery husks from tomatillos; rinse under running water to remove the sticky residue. Quater tomatillos; place on foil-lined baking sheet coated with cooking spray or olive oil. Chop onion. Place half chopped onion on baking sheet; reserve other half. Add halved jalapeno and 4 whole garlic cloves to baking sheet. Coat with cooking spray or drizzle lightly with olive oil. Roast 20 min., or until slightly brown and sizzling. Let cool slightly. Transfer vegetables to blender. Add remaining chopped onion, remaining garlic clove, cilantro and lime juice. Blend until combined. Season with salt. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding extra onion, garlic, cilantro, lime juice or salt to suit your taste. Transfer to bowl.

guacamole
when choosing an avocado, pick one that is deep green and gives a little when you push with your thumb. if there is little or no resistance, that one's not for you. i like chunky mixtures best and i find that when the avocado is really ripe, they collapse easily under your fork and leave little texture. also, it's lucky that this comes together so fast because you really want to serve it just after it's made to keep the guac from browning in front of your guests. if you're worried about timing, chop and juice the other ingredients earlier in the day.

2 ripe avocados
1 medium tomato, cored, halved, seeded and chopped
1/2 small red or yellow onion, peeled chopped
1 lime, juiced
1/2 jalapeno, seeded and finely chopped (this is up to you - if you worry about the spice, leave it out)

Halve avocados. Place the halves with the pits on a cutting board. Using sharp knife (and being very careful), whack the inner pit, twist the knife and pull; discard pits. Using spoon, scoop avocado flesh from skin and place in a mixing bowl. Using back of fork, mash avocado to desired consistency, making sure to leave pieces in tact. Gently mix in chopped onion, tomato and jalapeno, if using. Stir in lime juice; season with salt. Taste and adjust.